Showing posts with label Nitrite. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nitrite. Show all posts

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Bio-Spira - LATE BREAKING NEWS.... GOOD OR BAD? I'm not sure!!!

ADDED JUNE 2008 -

DR. TIM'S AQUATICS new product, Dr. Tim's One And Only is my suggested replacement for Bio-Spira. More info - http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/productguide/H2O-PURE_Products/H2O-PURE_Products.html which is the new website for Dr. Tim Hovanec, who was the scientist who invented the original formula for Bio-Spira, as well as the Bio-Wheel filter system. Now that Tetra has merged with Marineland, I suspect that Marineland's once decent quality products will diminish in quality. Instead of looking around for Bio-Spira, just get Dr. Tim's One And Only and use it instead.

Below is just a rough draft of recent forum posts in the AquaticLife YahooGroup which came up in this thread.. http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/message/26973, with the new info I've learned about the "new" Bio-Spira which will be coming out soon. Of course, since these are copies of my emails, the latest posts are on top so start at the bottom if you want to read things in chronological order. I've highlighted the pertinent "Late Breaking News" as red and bold text so you can scroll down and read it much quicker. Read this entire thread for more info about Bio-Spira, the nitrogen cycle, etc.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 11:47 AM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Actually, the original Bio-Spira had active strains of Nitrosomonas, Nitrospira and Nitrosospira. It was these latter two that set Bio-Spira apart... well that and the fact that it was kept refrigerated to keep the bacteria in hibernation so they'd live in the package until used. Read that long interview with Dr. Hovenac that I linked to in my previous post (copied below). I really am waiting to see how Marineland or Tetra explains that this "new" product will work and keep the bacteria alive on the shelf.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lana Gibbons
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 10:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

AUGH. :)

I meant "the only bacteria in Bio-spira is nitrospira, so it is missing nitrosomonas"

-Lana

> AFAIK, the only bacteria in Bio-spira is nitrosomonas (someone please
> correct me if I'm wrong here).

Carmen,

For pet and human bacteria supplements the bacteria are typically anaerobic
- they don't need oxygen to survive. I'm not so sure about septic bacteria, but it seems to me there wouldn't be that much aeration in the tank, so I'd guess it is also anaerobic.

From what I understand, aquarium bacteria is supposed to be aerobic since O2 is required for oxidizing nitrite to nitrate. What I don't understand is the difference between the standard Nitrosomonas/Nitrobacter vs. Bio-Spira which contains NitroSpira. Nitrobacter and NitroSpira basically do the same job (convert nitrite->nitrate), the only difference I can find is that NitroSpira grows slower and tends to be the nitrite oxidizing bacteria in natural samples more often than Nitrobacter. Nitrospira is slowed by high ammonia levels, which Nitrosomonas is needed to handle. AFAIK, the only bacteria in Bio-spira is nitrosomonas (someone please correct me if I'm wrong here).

-Lana

>
> Or (from pet odor control products) maybe they're using encapsulation
> technology, "wrapping" it with a small amount of oxygen that won't be
> depleted before the expiration date?
>
> Carmen

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 10:37 AM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Carmen,

I'm not sure about these so-called digestive aid bacteria since I've never done any research or reading about them (I'm down here in Southern Louisiana where we put hot sauce and lots of spices on just about everything so I've never needed any added digestive bacteria.. lol) and whether they will "live" outside of their normal environment (your intestines) but I do know that nitrifying bacteria need ammonia and oxygen to live. I know some bacteria will live in a dry environment and then become active under the right conditions (aka yeast) and nitrifying bacteria are an airborne bacteria in nature but there's a big difference between airborne bacteria and packaged products. In airborne conditions, there's just the right amount of moisture, plenty of O2 and there's an ammonia source from the nitrogen cycle that exists in all of nature.

It took Marineland ten years to develop the original Bio-Spira and their patent will be expiring soon.. I'm guessing in the next couple of years since the product came out in 2002 so it's at least six years old and most patents are only good for ten years. They were never really able to get it introduced to the mass marketplace due to the cost and other inhibiting factors associated with keeping it refrigerated during shipping and at retail levels. I would imagine that over the past ten years, while Bio-Spira held the patent on the hibernation method of keeping the nitrifying bacteria "alive" throughout the shipping and distribution process, all of the other so-called bacteria-in-a-bottle companies would have been figuring out a way to keep theirs alive without the need for refrigeration and NONE of them have done so... so I'm not sure how Marineland could have finally figured out a way to do it but I guess anything is possible so I'll wait and see some published reports from hobbyists and/or peer reviewed studies to come out. Here's a long interview with Dr. Timothy Hovenac, the lead scientist that helped develop Bio-Spira... http://aquamaniacs.net/forum/cms_view_article.php?aid=36

The fact that they are releasing the "new" Bio-Spira under Tetra's brand name makes me think it will just be another bottle of JUNK that they try to sell unsuspecting newbies. Of course, Bio-Spira did learn it was not just the nitrosomonas bacteria but the nitrospira and nitrosospira bacteria that started the nitrogen cycle so maybe, just maybe, if they do have some of these proper bacteria in a bottle, it might work but I'm very, very skeptical at this point. Why would they not use their own name? They already have really good brand recognition, with many hobbyists, as the only product that works as advertised so I'm not sure why they'd give that up... haven't they ever heard of "New Coke"? I'd like to see what Dr. Timothy Hovenac has to say about the new formula of Bio-Spira.

I know the other so-called bacteria-in-a-bottles do not work. For example, with the original Bio-Spira, you could add it one day and then start adding ammonia at up to 5ppm the next day and the tank would "cycle" properly (ammonia>nitrite>nitrate). I've read many posts from hobbyists who tried this experiment with the other bacteria-in-a-bottle products and NOTHING happened to the added ammonia the next day because there simply were NO live bacteria in the bottles. Eventually the tank would cycle but that would happen due to the airborne nitrifying bacteria eventually inhabiting the tank and growing large colonies. Most of the other bacteria-in-a-bottles did not even have the proper nitrifying bacteria.

Hey... now that's something we could do. Bottle air and sell it! Just kidding of course since the bottled air would eventually run out of O2 and ammonia as the nitrifying bacteria live and they would eventually die off. Hey, wait a minute.... we could sell bottles of air that aren't sealed so the nitrifying bacteria have a constant supply of fresh air and suspended ammonia so they would live. Or we could sell bottled air that has to be kept refrigerated to put the nitrifying bacteria into hibernation.

Oh well.. I don't have the patent yet so I'm making this special licensing offer to anyone else. You are welcome to use my idea of selling "GoldLenny's 100% Natural Air" complete with suspended nitrifying bacteria, oxygen and ammonia for use in jump starting the nitrogen cycle in aquariums. I do want a 5% royalty though! ;-)

I guess this belongs more on my Rants & Raves blog. LOL

On a side note, since I don't have 5-10 empty 10G tanks sitting around, maybe someone out here can go out and buy a bottle of each of the current so-called bacteria-in-a-bottle products and try this simple experiment. Set up the tanks running with a filter, add the product, wait the prescribed time period and then add 5ppm of ammonia and test it the next day to see if any of the ammonia was converted through the nitrogen cycle.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Carmen H
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 8:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Been thinking on this one. I'm a dog person, not a chemist, but here's something I thought of...
Most high-end holistic dog foods contain probiotics (bacteria). They are applied after the food cools to avoid being damaged by heat.

Eagle Pack also sells them in a dried powder form to assist with either food transition and fix for upset tummies. The bacteria are in "suspended animation" due to being dried. Maybe they've figured out a way to suspend it similarly so that it is dormant and doesn't require oxygen. A liquid is obviously different but ??? Come to think of it, Septibac for septic systems is available in powder OR liquid...I've never done a pile of research on the efficacy of it but I spray it on my yard in the spring to help digest leftover winter waste after the major spring cleanup and it seems to work...

Or (from pet odor control products) maybe they're using encapsulation technology, "wrapping" it with a small amount of oxygen that won't be depleted before the expiration date?

Carmen

On Sat, Apr 5, 2008 at 12:02 AM, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> wrote:

> Bruce,
>
> There simply is not a way to have a room temp bottle of live
> nitrifying bacteria that would have a shelf life of more than a few
> days. The science simply doesn't support it.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 11:02 PM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Bruce,

There simply is not a way to have a room temp bottle of live nitrifying bacteria that would have a shelf life of more than a few days. The science simply doesn't support it.
The bacteria need high O2 levels and feed off of ammonia... but if the ammonia level is above 5ppm, it starts to have a negative effect on the bacteria's colony growth and lifespan. Further, the bacteria colony is capable of doubling its size every 24-48 hours so even if they only put one or two nitrifying bacteria in a 16 oz. bottle of 5ppm ammonia solution, based on geometric progression, the colony would rapidly grow and consume all of the ammonia in a very short period of time.

Show me a product that has live bacteria living in the bottle after a couple of months in production, distribution and sitting on a shelf and I'll take back my words but frankly, I don't think such a product exists. I've tried several of the other so-called bottled bacteria products over the years and NONE of them worked as advertised... except Bio-Spira.

This is what was so GREAT about the original Bio-Spira and that it was kept refrigerated to keep the bacteria in hibernation so they did not consume all of the ammonia in the package until it was time to add the package to the aquarium. There were peer reviewed scientific reports proving that Bio-Spira actually had live nitrifying bacteria.

I've never seen any peer reviewed reports on any of the other so-called bacteria-in-a-bottle products. Once again, I'll take back my words if you can show me such reports on the products you claim work.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of bruce cohen
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 10:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Not all all bacteria in a bottle are pure JUNK The tropical science company have an excellent line of bacterias in a bottle both for saltwater and fresh including freshwater spawning aid as well as pro botics that protect fish. they even have a gravel product that does what it says cleans the gravel without increasing nitrates. it apears that marineland may have figured out a way to put the bacteria in a statis but I do know that Jungle Labs are probally not going to be happy when they have to re name there product since theirs were on the market first then they should have the rights to calling there product start right.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> > wrote:

More late breaking news about Bio-Spira...

I wonder if it's going to work as well as the original product or if it's just going to another bacteria-in-a-bottle that doesn't work. It could be why they are releasing it under Tetra's label since Tetra will pretty much sell anything in a bottle... look at their Easy Balance with Nitraban product which is pure JUNK!!!

Here is the reply I got from Marineland...

Hello,

We are relaunching bio-spira. It is in a new package and reformulated.

It will no longer need to be refrigerated, and hopefully, soon on every store shelf across the nation. The freshwater version will be branded Tetra and called start right, while the saltwater version will be branded Instant Ocean and still be called Bio-Spira.

They held off on adding it to the webpage because of this change.

Regards,

Robert Huber
United Pet Group, Aquatics Div.
Senior Consumer Relations Specialist
Robert.Huber@Tetra.net <
mailto:Robert.Huber%40Tetra.net> 1-800-526-0650 ext. 6126

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [
mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com <mailto:goldlenny%40gmail.com> ]
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 11:29 AM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <
mailto:%27AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> '
Subject: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Mike,

I was shocked when I saw your post so I did some Googling and it looks like the rumor may be partially correct.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/ <http://www.drsfostersmith.com/> was carrying Bio-Spira up until recently but now it's no longer on their website either. When I looked at http://www.marineland.com/, <http://www.marineland.com,/> there's no mention of Bio-Spira either. WTF!!

Then I called Marineland's 800 number and found out some interesting stuff.

For the past couple of years, Marineland has been working on a way to bottle Bio-Spira so it did not have to be refrigerated, since the refrigeration aspect was a big problem getting Bio-Spira into ALL pet stores and/or selling it easily online.

According to the person I spoke to, there is still some of the "old" product available at some retailers and online sources but he could not give me any of the online sources because his computer was acting up. The new Marineland website still has the store locator function and he suggested looking for a retailer in the area and contacting them to see if any have or might have access to some of the remaining inventory of the old Bio-Spira.

It will be interesting to see how they package it and their explanation as to why it doesn't have to be refrigerated since the big explanation for why Bio-Spira worked all along and why all of the other bacteria-in-a-bottle products didn't work was because it was refrigerated and the bacteria were kept in hibernation. The room temperature stuff could not keep the bacteria alive if there ever was live bacteria in the room temp bottles in the first place.

He also said that they just revamped their website and did not put Bio-Spira on it yet since the new product isn't available yet and they have shipped their final inventory of the old product. I told him they should put a press release or something on a link to Bio-Spira on their website so people will know, otherwise the internet rumor mill will have all kinds of misinformation out there in a matter of minutes.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog -
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/ <http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Deenerz@aol.com <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 4:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Sissy,

I heard a new batch has not been made in about two years and none is scheduled to be made at this time. I heard a rumor that Dr. Fosters and Smith might have an alternative but have not had a chance to check myself.

-Mike

If you can find Marineland's Bio-spiral, it will set up a bacteria bed instantly. It's a bacteria suspentded in a medium that seeds the nitrifying bacteria strains into your system, that normally takes at least 21 days to establish with starter fish. It is hard to find,and sometimes if

-----Original Message-----
From: Sissy Sathre
>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 11:31 am
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Hi Lisa, a 50 gallon is a perfect size aquarium for a beginner. Much larger margin for mistakes than smaller tanks. I suggest going to :
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsetupindex.htm <http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsetupindex.htm>

You will find "Good" information there from very experienced aquariest.
You'll find different ways of filtering your new aquarium from under ground filters, invented in the 1950's to supply oxygen to your bacteria bed-creating a biological balance, to the newest methods of we/dry filters, bio-wheels,other hang on filters, canister filters and denitrification filters.

If you can find Marineland's Bio-spiral, it will set up a bacteria bed instantly. It's a bacteria suspentded in a medium that seeds the nitrifying bacteria strains into your system, that normally takes at least 21 days to establish with starter fish. It is hard to find,and sometimes if you call Marineland and tell them you cant find it in your area, they will send it to you Free overnight shipping and all. It has a short shelf life and has to be keep cool,so many stores dont carry it. I am the Marineland service rep. in west-Tx. They have sent it to me to give out before for free ! Marineland is the manufacture of commercial lobster tanks, and MARS systems, the wall unites you see in Wal-marts and they manufacture aquariums and aquarium supplies including the Bio-wheel filters.

You can of coarse cycle the fishless way,and speed the process of the nitrogen cycle.
The best way in my opinion is to get a hand full of gravel from a healthy existing aquarium, or exchange bio-wheels from a existing filter. I do both and start my clients tanks out with hardy fish in 24 hours. I only add a few fish to feed the bacteria bed, then make sure no mini cycle is taking place, and then add a few more every couple weeks until is at capacity for the size the fish will grow.

I hope this helps!

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
http://www.aquariumsbysissy.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:48 PM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Hi Lisa,

A good free place to start is to look at profiles for your proposed fish on http://fish.mongabay.com/ Each profile will have a paragraph called SC (Suggested Companions) which will give you a baseline of usually compatible fish to start off with. Remember though... the fish do not always read the same things we do so there will sometimes be problems. The Mongabay profiles also give you recommended tank size, feeding tips, water parameters, etc.

Another good place to start is my "A to Z of Fish Keeping" page on my blog http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/. That one page will cover most aspects of beginner fish keeping and there are links to two different free online tutorials that you can take at your leisure which will walk you through all of the basics. Pay special attention to fishless cycling your new tank and learn the basics of "the nitrogen cycle", called "Cycling" in the fish keeping world. It's the biggest mistake most newbies make by not fishless cycling their tank or trying to cycle with fish and not understanding the arduous process that the fish are going through.

Since you have the tank, you could set it up and get the fishless cycling process going while you take the tutorials and read up more on the types of fish you might want. Make a list of what you like and look around at your locals stores to see what they have. It will take a couple of weeks to fishless cycle the tank and you will probably change your planned stocking several times during this time period.

Don't fall for all the so-called-chemical fixes that the stores try to sell you. Get a decent master test kit now and do a baseline test on your tap water so you will know what you are starting with. I have a blog on doing the baseline testing. Post your before/after numbers here and we'll help you decipher them.

Let us know which books you have. There are about 1,000 bad books for every good book out there... especially when it comes to setting up a new tank since much of what we've learned about the nitrogen cycle in fish keeping has happened in the past 10 or so years. I've got some books published by well known publishers that are plain JUNK. If you want to buy a magazine, get TFH - Tropical Fishkeeping Hobbyist rather than Aquarium Fish Magazine since AFM has some real junk information coming out of it where TFH is usually very reliable. I'm about to do a new blog comparing the two magazines just to show the disparity of information that is out there by popular publications.

Your 50G tank will not be large enough for long term keeping of the Bala Shark since they grow to 16". Here is the profile on the Bala Shark and I've copy/pasted the SC section ... http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Balantiocheilus_melanopterus.html

Here is the profile on Angelfish... scroll down about halfway to the more common angelfish... http://fish.mongabay.com/angelfish.htm A 50G tank, depending on the dimensions, would be a good home for 1-3 angelfish and depending on how many angelfish you go with, you could have other fish also. Angelfish get pretty BIG (6" long x 9" high) and even though they are peaceful cichlids, they are cichlids and are not always angels so they need their space. ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lisa
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

----- Original Message -----
From: Lisa
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:37 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Hi all.

I'm looking at maybe starting a new freshwater tank, and need all the help I can get.
It will probably be a 50 gal or smaller.

I really am a novice at this. So I have no idea where to begin.

I like bala sharks. And would like to know what other species I would be able to keep with them.

Either that or some angels.

So where do I start?

I have some books on freshwater set ups which cover plants and various species of fish. But they don't have a great deal of information. I figured it would be great to talk to people with experience.

First of all. How, when and how much do I need to do a water change?

How do I get the right water conditions?

Tuesday, May 8, 2007

Find Your Tap / Source Water Baseline

http://tinyurl.com/tap-water-baseline

Quite often you are told to test your tank water chemistry (parameters) for things like: 1) ammonia, 2) nitrite, 3) nitrate, 4) pH, 5) temperature, 6) KH and 7) GH... the basic tests that most fish keepers should have.  Something you are not often told is that you should know your tap/source water parameters and what happens to your tap/source water after you fill your tank or do a PWC (partial water change). The pH will usually change a little or a lot. There may be ammonia, nitrite or nitrate in your tap/source water. The KH and GH could change or be non-existent.

To find your tap/source water baseline, you should run your cold water for a minute or two to flush out any stagnant water in your home pipes. Then fill a one gallon bucket or other open top container. You need a large opening to have adequate surface area. After filling the bucket, immediately test it for all of your tests (preferably the seven mentioned above). Record your numbers. Add your dechlor product. Test for ammonia again. Record number.  If you do not have the KH and GH test kits, test for everything you do have... but it's really good to know your KH (Carbonate Hardness) as this helps you know if you have to worry about pH crashes in your tank.  GH (General Hardness) is good to know as some fish do not do as well in really soft or really water.  It's best to know your water baseline and then choose fish that do best in your kind of water so you don't have to worry about your fish's health or get into the water chemistry changing game.

If you have chloramine treated water, when you add your dechlor product, it will break the bond between the chlorine and ammonia so you will get a slight ammonia reading. Normally, it's not more than 0.5ppm (which is easily converted in your biological filtration in an established tank but this level can cause alarm in a new tank depending on the pH and temperature).

Now set the bucket on the side and wait 24 to 48 hours and test the water again and compare the numbers. You could also test it at 24 and 48 hours to get even more information about what happens to your tap/source water once it gets into your tank during PWC's. You can speed up this 48 hour time period by adding an air stone to the bucket to agitate the water constantly. If you don't have an extra air pump and stone, then just stir the water regularly to increase the outgassing of CO2 and any other gases in the water that will outgas once in your aquarium anyhow.

Some tap/source waters have high CO2 levels out of the tap which results in a low pH right out the tap but then as the CO2 outgasses, the pH stabilizes to a higher level. Other tap waters have buffers that raise the pH out of the tap but then these buffers wear out quickly when exposed to light, air and temperature changes and the pH will drop.

Also, if you have tropical fish and regularly add hot water to your cold water to raise the temperature to match the tank temperature, you should know what your hot water parameters are as well. Your hot water heater is basically a distillery that is boiling the water which causes the chemistry to change. Many of the additives to your water will come out of solution and settle in the bottom of your hot water heater. You will notice a faucet on the bottom of your hot water heater. Most people don't do this but you should partially drain your hot water heater once a year to remove this sediment. This sediment will eventually cause your hot water heater to fail. Also, it's not good for your fish. Usually, it's just a matter of hooking up a quality garden hose to the faucet, running it out your back door and then open the faucet to let the sediment and sludge flush out until the water is coming out clear. Read your owners manual or online sources for more information on how to do proper maintenance to your hot water heater.

To learn more about the water quality for your area, in the USA, check here:

http://www.epa.gov/safewater/dwinfo/index.html

I hope this helps.

GoldLenny

Thursday, March 1, 2007

Everyone NEEDS a decent Master Test Kit

NOTICE-THIS IS AN OLD "ARTICLE" THAT I DID BACK IN JUNE 2005 THAT I AM REPRINTING ON MY BLOG. SOME OF THE "OLD" LINKS DO NOT WORK ANYMORE SO I'M ADDING NEW LINKS TO CURRENT PRICES. IF A LINK DOES NOT WORK, PLEASE LEAVE A COMMENT SO I CAN UPDATE IT.

UPDATE - 2009 - WalMart.com has the best prices on the API Master Test Kit and the Tetra-Laborette Master Test Kit, for around $15.00 and $17.00 respectively.  They offer FREE shipping to your local WalMart store.  I highly recommend either of these kits with the API being most recommended.  You would have to add on the optional GH/KH Combo kit to the API and the Nitrate kit to the T-L.

-------------

I've been doing some online shopping from "Clearance" pages from several popular web sites and I have also seen these prices on Master Test Kits that everyone should have. The basic tests that are needed are ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph (high and low), KH and GH. There are many other things happening in our tanks we cannot easily test for but these basic tests will go a long way in keeping our tanks healthy and happy.

Also, I know that my local PetsMart will match their internet prices for anything so I always look on PetsMart.com for my items before I go there. Print the page and show the cashier and they'll reduce their store price.

As you will see, I did not do any research on the "dip sticks" as every brand I've tried have not lived up to my expectations. They seem to give very inconsistent readings. I think everyone should have a decent Master Test Kit using test tubes and liquid reagent to get more accurate test results.

*****************************************

Tetra-Laborette Test Kit -

A complete test kit for freshwater aquariums. Kit includes ammonia, nitrite, pH, carbonate hardness and general hardness tests. Also includes a testing booklet, log book, syringe dispenser, and two test vials.

I received this test kit and along with doing the above tests, there is also a conversion chart to give you your CO2 reading using the pH and KH readings. Also, the pH test on this kit is not as accurate as the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit IMO.

(OLD LINK NO LONGER WORKS) http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=19617;category_id=3233;pcid1=;pcid2=

Here is BigAlsOnline.com new link for the Tetra-Laborette Master Test Kit for $14.39 now:

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18538/si1379248/cl0/tetralaboretttestkit

But I also found this one online:

http://www.arcatapet.com/item.cfm?cat=573 Same Kit but $13.92 US.

NOTICE - I did order this along with a few other items from BigAlsOnline since the "Master" kit, below, that I have did not test for GH or KH. This one DOES NOT test for Nitrates which is one of the more common tests in the long run.

****************************************

BigAl's also has the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Master Test Kit at a good price as well.... not the lowest but a good price none the less. This old link was for when it was on sale for only $12.99 but that sale is over.

(LINK NO LONGER WORKS) http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=19383;category_id=3233;pcid1=;pcid2=

Here is BigAlsOnline.com new link for the API FreshWater Master Test Kit for $15.99... still a pretty good price!:

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18538/si1380887/cl0/aquariumpharmaceuticalsfreshwatermastertestkit
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Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Freshwater Master Test Kit at Wal-Mart for $17.64 -

The Freshwater Master Test Kit Includes Tests for: Freshwater pH, High Range pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, GH (general hardness) and KH (carbonate hardness) (You will need a separate Nitrate test kit)

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp?product_id=3635493&cat=202105&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;type=1&dept=5440&path=0%3A5440%3A202074%3A202105#long_descr

(NOTICE - I bought one of these at my local PetsMart, $24.99, when I first got into the hobby and it did not test for GH or KH... but it did instead test for Nitrates so there may be a typo or different "Master" test kits from API or API may have changed the packaging on this test kit.)

*****************************************

$11.09 Mini Freshwater Test Lab -
$29.79 Deluxe Freshwater Test Lab -

The Deluxe Freshwater Test helps serious aquatic hobbyists to maintain the healthiest tanks. All inclusive kit contains tests for pH, ammonia, nitrite, hardness GH & KH, iron, CO2, and chlorine.

(LINK NO LONGER WORKS AND I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIND THESE KITS ONLINE ANY LONGER) http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441776885&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302030068&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023693&bmUID=1119364370490

(NOTICE - I could not find a brand name on the above two kits or any information on the Mini kit but these do perform many different tests compared to other kits.)

******************************************

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Freshwater Master Test Kit at PetsMart.com for only $13.49 as I write this Blog but their regular online price is still only $15.99 and remember that most PetsMart's retail stores will match their online prices if you bring in their printed online page -

Freshwater Master Test Kit is a complete kit for testing tap water & aquarium water. Tests water 6 different ways to protect tropical fish from dangerous water conditions. Tests include: freshwater pH, ammonia, nitrite, high range pH, Nitrate, 4 test tubes, tray.

http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441776772&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302030152&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023693&bmUID=1119364908908

(NOTICE - This is the first test kit that I owned and still use. I did recently order the Tetra-Laborette kit since it does the GH and KH tests as well as the above tests, but recent internet searchs and API's website now show their FW Master Test Kit has the GH and KH tests but not the Nitrate Test... so you may have to buy the Nitrate test kit separately.)

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DrsFosterSmith.com has the API FW Master Test Kit for regular price of $18.99 but on 3/18/2007, it was on sale for $15.19.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=4454&Ntt=api%20master%20test%20kit&amp;amp;amp;amp;Ntk=All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&N=2004&Nty=1

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NOW.... HERE'S SOME NEW INFORMATION FOR THIS BLOG.

Hagen Master Test Kit for $39.99 at BigAlsOnline.com -

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18538/si1380474/cl0/nutrafintestmasterlabkit

Aquarium tests for fresh and salt water. Every test you'll ever need in one complete kit. Hard plastic attache is portable and stores all your kits for future use. Tests for ammonia, calcium, nitrate, phosphate, nitrite, pH, iron, carbonate hardness, and general hardness. 9 instructions booklets, 5 glass test tubes with caps, 2 pipettes, and 1 spoon.

(This kit does not mention it but since it has all of these tests, but the instructions may have the conversion chart for CO2, or you can also use available online charts to determine your CO2 levels.)

Kordon AquaTru Test Kits (highly recommended by file://steve//) and I've read over the information at http://www.novalek.com/kordon/aquatru/overview.htm and I can see why file://steve// speaks highly of this kit. It's a much higher price than many of the above mentioned test kits but since accuracy is something we strive for, it's certainly something to be considered.

(START SNIP)
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:

Kordon AquaTru Water Quality Test Kits pioneered the use of dry reagents for use in aquarium and pond water testing using colorimetric water test kits. The major advantage of dry reagents is in their accuracy and shelf life. AquaTru Dry reagents for water testing are more stable than colorimetric tests done with test strips or liquid reagents. This means that the aquarist and pond keeper can perform tests using Kordon AquaTru water tests with the confidence of knowing the results will be as accurate as is possible for a "colorimetric" type test. Also, Kordon dates their reagents with their expiration dates. All manufacturer's reagents, whether dry or liquid, are subject to degradation. Because the reagent chemicals break down over time, it is important to know when the reagents are going to go out of date. Therefore, it is not recommended to use reagents that are not dated to show when they are out of date.

AquaTru's color comparator system has been carefully designed to reflect the needs of the concerned aquarist and pond keeper. The top is flared to make adding reagents easier,. The wide base increases stability. A special sliding window helps make color comparisons more accurate. The color strip consists of translucent colors applied to a durable plastic, rather than a printed paper card. The translucent color strip allows light to pass through, providing a much more accurate match when comparing the cube's colors to those produced by the reagents. Reflected colors, such as those produced on a printed comparator do not match as well when compared with the translucent colors in a test cube.

The quality of tap water varies widely and aquarium and pond systems. It is increasingly important to monitor water conditions carefully in the aquarium and pond. It is equally important to select only top quality, reliable test equipment to monitor these conditions. It is beyond the scope of most aquarists and pond keepers to analyze the accuracy of a test kit. They must depend upon the manufacturer to provide them with accurate, dependable test kits. Kordon has provided professional quality accurate water quality test kits in its AquaTru products for over 30 year, which are of the same grade as provided to scientific laboratories, government agencies, academia, and to commercial aquaculture.
(END SNIP)

The best price I could find on the Freshwater Master Test Kit was from an eBay store for around $60.00 plus 6.99 shipping. http://cgi.ebay.com/Kordon-Fresh-Water-Master-Aquarium-Test-Kit-35810_W0QQitemZ130125159778QQcmdZViewItem and here is the seller's online store site if the above link fails... http://stores.ebay.com/By-Rite-Pet-Supply but file://steve// provided this link where this kit is on sale for $48.00 right now (10/17/08) http://www.fish.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=790088+002 but it's regular price is $78.00 plus shipping when the sale ends.

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Often, I see people asking, "How long do the test kits last?". You should check the manufacturers website for current information but here is a forum link where the API (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc.) test kits shelf life info has been posted. http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/fishtest/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19378 which actually got the information from another forum so I'll just re-print it here for simplicity.

Hope these answers help. Each bottle has a lot number printed on them. The last
four digits are the date of Manufacture. (e.g. ab120202 is manufactured Feb.
2002). The people at Tetra & API informed, that test kits have a shelf life
of 3 years from the date of manufacture & hence a lot number of ab120202
would be 'in date' until Feb. 2005.
Info from : http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php
Test Solutions Shelf Life from bottling date:
Wide Range pH Test Solution 3 years
Ammonia Test Solution #1 3 years
Ammonia Test Solution #2 3 years
High Range pH Indicator Solution (m-Cresol Purple) 3 years
Nitrate Test Solution #1 3 years
Nitrate Test Solution #2 3 years
GH Test Solution 3 years
KH Test Solution 4 years
Nitrite Test Solution 4 years
Fresh Water Ammonia Test Solution (Nessler) 5 years
Fresh Water pH Indicator Solution 5 years
High Range pH Indicator Solution (Cresol Red) 5 years
Salt Level Test Solution #1 5 years
Salt Level Test Solution #2 5 years

Here is a recent thread from http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2328 about how the Nitrate Test Kits and how the last reagent bottle may have testing abnormalities due to chemical separation. There are solutions in the thread on how to keeping this problem from happening.

Hope this helps some of the newbies and experts.

GoldLenny

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Monday, February 26, 2007

Nitrates - Long Explanation (Thanks to Steve S. on another forum)

From: "Steve S" (Edits in brackets added by Lenny)

Subject: Nitrate - Long post

There does seem to be a lot of unnecessary concern of nitrate levels expressed by people on this list for relatively low levels of nitrate.

Nitrate is the end product of the ammonia cycle ("The Nitrogen Cycle") that occurs in every tank.

There is no easy way to naturally remove nitrate without the use of a setup that uses anaerobic bacteria to reduce nitrate to its components. The usual method of deal with nitrate is water changes (25% PWC's) and the addition of live plants, which includes algal growth.

At what level should one really become concerned about the level of nitrates in the aquarium. A level of 1000 ppm is definitely a concern, since everything dies. So we need to go lower than that. 500 ppm is still of definite concern. Many animals and plants will die at this level also, but some will live, though not well, as they will be subject to long-term effects of nitrate, such as hole-in-head disease and the erosion of the lateral line. Some plants also will not survive this level of nitrates.

At 200 ppm, the effects of nitrate will be more long term than immediate. Again, we would be looking at such things as later line disease and hole-in-head as a result. Going lower will help reduce the effects. At 150 ppm, again, the effects are long term. Going even lower, long term effects are still present.

Ideally, one would wish to reduce nitrate levels to less than 20 ppm, but immediate action is not called for until you reach a number of more than 150 ppm. Please do note that figures for a marine (salt water) aquarium are very much different, and action is called for when nitrate is measured in the single digits of ppm. In a marine environment, it is possible to reduce nitrates to immeasurable levels through the use of foam fractioners, which do not work well in fresh water.

So, you notice that your nitrates are rising, or at a high level. One can simply panic and do immediate large water changes (or a series of 3-4 24% PWC's) to reduce the level of nitrates. However, doing this fails to discover and remedy the core cause of the high level of nitrates. Unless you are getting reading over 150 ppm of nitrate, you do have some time to do investigative work to discover and remedy the cause of the nitrates, while your regular water changes (25% PWC's) should help you reduce the level.

Where does nitrate come from? Nitrate is the end product of the ammonia cycle ("The Nitrogen Cycle") as we follow it in the aquarium. Ammonia is produced as a waste product by the animals you have living in your tank. It can also be produced by dead and decaying animals and plants as well as food added to the aquarium. If you are using fertilizer for your plants, this may also be a source of ammonia. You need to reduce the sources of ammonia. Feeding less will help reduce the level. Most of us feed our fish too well. A day of fasting may help the health of your fish, as well as reducing the amount fed each day. Raising fry is a whole other ball of wax, which I will not be covering here, but to get quick growth you do want to ensure they are well fed. If there is left over food when you are feeding, you will need to reduce the amount of food you give to your fish, until there is no left-overs in the tank. Until this is remedied, you will want to wait a while after feeding the fish, then siphon off the left-overs.

If you are fertilizing your live plants, you will want to reduce or stop the fertilization of the plants or start adding only the trace elements your plants may need for good growth and avoid a fertilizer that contain nitrogenous products.

Also look for and remove any dead materials from your aquarium. Likely, if this is a fish, you'll do it rather rapidly. If it is plant material, then you will need to, perhaps, do this on a daily basis. Algae poses a particular problem. Removal of algae will reduce the capacity of your aquarium to remove nitrates, but then, it is also difficult to know when to remove it because it may be dead or simply another form of algae. It may be best to follow your aesthetic sense and remove what does not appeal to you, and remove any that is not green. Those of you that have snails in your aquarium are faced with a sometimes difficult decision--is the snail dead or is it alive? Tough to tell sometimes. However, if you have a nitrate problem, it may be well to take the conservative course of action and remove any snails you have doubts about, either to dispose of or to place in another environment. (You can always do the smell test on a snail. If it smells rotten, it's probably dead but you can put it in another container with some of your tank water if you want to be cautious.)

Throughout this entire process, you will need to keep an eye on the progress you are making. Go back to daily testing of your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. Also test your tap water, which could be another source of nitrates in your aquarium. The EPA has a regulation that states that drinking water should not contain more than 10 ppm of nitrate. However, from reports of aquarist's around the country, not all water companies are meeting this requirement. Also, if you are using well water, your nitrates may be high, especially when the aquifer is in agricultural parts of the country. Our well fertilized lawns and gardens can also have an effect on the nitrate level of aquifers, but most research has pointed to agriculture as a large culprit. If your water is starting with unacceptable levels of nitrate, you will need to look into means to reduce the nitrate before the water reaches the aquarium. This is usually done with chemical adsorption products.

If your nitrate level still does not lower after doing all this, you will need to look at some other aspects of your aquarium. I have mentioned live plants in this discussion, but I am aware that not all people utilize live plants in their aquariums. There may be practical reasons for this, like the vegetarian habits of your fish prevent the growth of plant s to any great extent, and may reduce the number of plants you have, your fish may be diggers that uproot plants, etc. Your tank may simply be overcrowded with fish, and be overloading the biological processes that would normally handle such situations. In the former situation, you may want to utilize the marine idea of a refugarium, where there is a separate tank that water flows through that has plants to pull out the "bad stuff" from the water, with water from the main tank run through the filtration system into the refugarium and back into the main tank. You may also wish to investigate plants that may be immune to the predation of your fish. As for overcrowding, well, you simply need to reduce the numbers of fish that are present in the tank. You may set up more aquariums to house them or give them to friends who would like them. You may even be able to bring them back to you LFS for credit.

Another source may be a decoration that has recently been added to your tank that is leaching substances into your water as it 'cures' in your tank. Removal of this object will show a quick and drastic reduction with your next water change. Should this be the case, you'll need to either cure the item outside the tank, or do without it inside the tank.

Also, not usual, but, perhaps not as unusual as we may like to think, there may be an outside force acting upon the tank, like something some one has added to the tank without your knowledge. One of the kids could have put something in the tank without your knowledge and you may never know if the youngin' expects they'll get a punishment for admitting it or an adult at a party may have added something just o see what the fish will do. This kind of thing can be the devil to track down, and the influence will abate with time.

What ever you need to do, don't panic. Take things slowly and try to identify the cause of the problem. Your fish will allow you time to fix things. Should you be keeping marine fish, well, as I mentioned earlier, we are in a whole other ballpark there, and you may need to take more rapid action to avoid losing animals. Marine animals have less a tolerance for nitrate than freshwater do, and I would advise you to find a guru near you that can be of assistance. I'm not a marine person, nor do I play one on TV, and do not claim to have any special knowledge of marine topics.

Don't buy into any 'magic' cures for what ails your tank. They may do more harm than good.
Thank you for your patience reading this long, and somewhat involved post.

\\ Steve //


Here is a follow-up email from Steve to me.


Lenny,

I've been out of town since before you posted this, and have just returned today. I do need to emphasize that there are some fish, such as those of the _Apistogramma_genus (at least some have been placed in the _Microgeophagus_genus now, I think), that are fairly intolerant of nitrates of any level.

One needs to check the literature available on these, and any other species of fish to determine what levels of nitrate they can stand. I do not believe this was emphasized in my original post properly.

The original post was merely meant to ease some people's fears, and therefore need to do something immediately, about nitrate levels that may be considered to be too high. Rapid changes in water chemistry can be more dangerous to the fish than the condition you are trying to correct.

Generally, if the nitrates are out of whack, it did not happen overnight, but was a gradual rise over a period of time. The correction should lead to a gradual downward trend over time. If you are keeping fish that are sensitive to even minimal levels of nitrate, such as the rams mentioned above, you may need to react quickly to change the level, and try to save as many as you can, but generally, a slow and considered approach is best for all involved.

\\ Steve //

BIG THANKS to Steve for this long article on Nitrates and his follow-up clarification.

EDIT added August 23, 2009.

Here is another good article that I found after looking at a web page that file://steve// posted to the AquaticLife Yahoo Group, which further talks about the effects of nitrates on our fish.

http://www.aquaworldaquarium.com/Articles/TonyGriffitts/AdverseAffectofNitrateontheAquarium.htm

GoldLenny



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Filter Maintenance And Cleaning Recommendations

http://tinyurl.com/Filter-Maintenance

PREFACE - This article is most important to new fish-keepers and for tanks that are less than six months old. It is during these early stages that proper filter maintenance is most critical since you are still growing a proper sized Nitrifying Bacteria (N-Bacteria) colony in your filter media and substrate. This article is also very important and applicable for tanks over six months old that have limited filtration or overstocking issues or if you are having water quality issues, algae problems, sick fish, etc.... (Edit added 11/14/2008 - ...and most importantly because of a recent funny post in the Ponds-Koi Yahoo Group by Bill Dowden, owner of http://www.coastalpond.com/ so the following few paragraphs are about a Pond Filter but it's still applicable to ALL filters):

FILTRATION:

HAVING TO CLEAN A FILTER CAN BE GOOD.

First of all, if a filter does not collect junk and clog, it isn't doing its job and working to get the junk out of the water.

Since IT'S ALL ABOUT WATER QUALITY, the filter is supposed to take organics out of the water to IMPROVE water quality. (Inorganics = rocks = really aren't a problem.)

If a filter catches organics and the filter is not clogged (yet) but also not cleaned - then the organics can dissolve and go back into the water in solution = LOWERING THE WATER QUALITY.

SO, the object of a good pond keeper is to IMPROVE water quality = clean the organics from ANY filter BEFORE they dissolve = every other day, every third day.......

Sorry for bringing reality into your lives....

I know everyone wants a filter that doesn't EVER need to be cleaned.

Imagine that the filter catches poop. So it is the fishes' toilet.

How often do you clean (flush) your toilet? Why? Why not the fishes' also.

:-)

Bill
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Here is a good article about "The Nitrogen Cycle" to help you understand this entire "article" further if you do not know about the nitrogen cycle. http://fish.orbust.net/cycling.html

You should also have a Master Test Kit capable of testing ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH. Having GH and KH test kits are also encouraged in determining some basic water chemistry/quality issues. There are many other things going on in our tanks that we can not easily test for.
And now... onto the actual article...
WHY ARE MY FISH GASPING, ACTING LETHARGIC OR DYING???
If your new tank has a small HOB (hang on back filter system) and you were told to buy and replace your filter cartridge once a month... or every other week, then that may be what is causing you so many problems. You are potentially putting your tank into a new mini-cycle everytime you "clean" the filters or change them out for a new one. NEVER clean the filters in the normal sense of the word "clean". If you cleaned the filter media by running the filter under tap water, the chlorine/chloramine in the water could have killed your GOOD nitrifying bacteria in the filter and you will have to "cycle" your filter media again. This will probably put your tank into a new mini-cycle which means testing for ammonia and nitrites and doing PWC's to keep them at safe levels. This could take around two weeks but there is usually enough N-bacteria on other surface areas and in the gravel to keep major spikes in the ammonia or nitrites but most of the N-Bacteria live in the filter sponges, pads, etc. so cleaning/maintaining them should be done carefully.

All you should do is once a week or every other week, when you do your 25% PWC (partial water change), take some of the tank water in a bucket and then you can take your filter cartridge or media out of the holder and swoosh it around in the tank water and squeeze it out to remove the big stuff off of it. Then put it back in the holder and back in your filter system. If it's really clogged up with detritus, you could also squeez it several times in the removed tank water bucket. This will possibly squeeze out some of the good N-Bacteria but will usually leave enough to keep your tank safe. The N-Bacteria are capable of doubling their colony size every 24 hours so as long as you leave enough, the colony will grow back shortly. This "swooshing or squeezing in removed tank water" method keeps the GOOD bacteria alive on the filter so you do not cause your tank to "cycle" again.

I know the filter companies and some pet store employees tell you to replace it once a month but they are just trying to sell filters. That is one of the leading cause of problems... messing with the filters because the "instructions" say to do it.

It is important to clean your filters regularly so you do not have excess detritus building up in them. Detritus in your filter media, when it starts breaking down, becomes a nitrate factory which goes into your water column as the tank water is filtered through it. Nitrates and phosphates feed algae blooms. Just like vacuuming your gravel to remove excess detritus before it breaks down, cleaning the filters often will also keep the nitrates much lower. I guess if you do frequent PWC's, that would substitute for keeping the filters cleaner but if you cleaned your filters before they become completely clogged, it would make the water quality even better between PWC's. Further, the bacteria that is consuming and breaking down the detritus use up a lot of O2 and KH and put out a lot of CO2. The higher CO2 further feeds algae growth and lowers your pH. The loss of KH can cause your pH to crash putting your fish into pH shock.

Here are two of my "Filter Profile" articles so you can see exactly how I clean and maintain two of my six filter systems.

Filter Profile - Marineland Penguin 200 Bio-Wheel

Filter Profile - Rena Filstar xP1 Canister

Here are some articles that I contributed to or did photo-documentation on at TheGAB.org forums, which has some more information on various filter systems including some photos from me and others.

http://thegab.org/Articles/Filtration.html

http://thegab.org/Articles/FilterProfilePenguin200.html


HOB's (Hang On Back Filter Systems - Power Filters and Bio-Wheel Systems) -
If you have a HOB filter system, you should really only clean the filter cartridge if the flow rate slows down or it's backing up back into the tank via the overflow outlet. But do NOT go more than a month between doing maintenance on any of your filters as they will build up a lot of detritus which will start to decay and possibly cause your nitrates to start climbing quickly. I just do the swoosh and/or squeeze method once a week with my 25% PWC and never have the problem. Don't worry.. most of us learned the hard way in the beginning.

Another thing if you have an HOB... is after you swoosh/squeeze the filter media/cartridge and have it ready to put back in the holder, dump the water out of the HOB reservoir as it will have some "big stuff" in there as well. Then put your filter back in the HOB, dip a few cups of water out of your tank to fill the HOB reservoir and then plug it back in.

If your HOB also has a Bio-Wheel, then you could technically change out the cartridge instead of using the swoosh/squeeze method since the actual Bio-Wheel would house sufficient numbers of N-Bacteria so that you would not cause a mini-cycle. The inventors of this system created it for that reason... so they could sell you lots of filter cartridges and encourage you to change them without causing harm to your fish. I still don't think it's necessary but if you find it simpler to change the cartridge every few weeks and don't mind the expense, then that is a choice that is available to you.

One last tip... if your "biobag" filters or filter cartridges have carbon in them, you can dump the carbon out after a few weeks since it has lost its effectiveness by then. This will also improve the flow rate through the "empty" biobag/cartridge as well. Some companies try to prevent you from emptying the carbon by sealing it inside of the plastic housing of the cartridge frame. I have been successful with doing "surgery" on the section holding the old carbon to open it up and dump the carbon while keeping the frame and floss/poly pad for reuse. The floss/poly pad or sponge material in the biobag/cartridge should last over a year but in the event you do decide you want to change your biobag/cartridge, put the new one in the reservoir for 2 weeks so it builds up a good bacteria colony. Then on your next PWC, you can trash the old one, swoosh the new one and then put in in the holder. It's not really necessary to change them very often... at least not until they look like they are about to fall apart. I have the same filter cartridges on my HOB's and they are all over a year old. (More about carbon below)

CANISTER FILTER SYSTEMS -
As far as a canister filter, I have four different phases of mixed mechanical/biological filtration in my canister filter system. I have a large sponge block with large pores, then a smaller sponge block with smaller pores, then even a smaller pore sponge and then a filter floss pad. I do maintenance on my canister twice a month or if I notice the flow rate slowing down. At the beginning of the month, I leave the sponges alone and clean the floss pad real good.. even running it under hot faucet water until it's white again. In the middle of the month, I squeeze the sponges to clean them and get the big stuff out of them but I don't run them under hot faucet water. This keeps a big portion of the nitrifying bacteria alive with each filter "cleaning" so I never have a problem with a mini-cycle. I also have two filters running on each of my tanks so I alternate the maintenance on them from week to week so I have at least one fully cycled filter running at all times. If you have a large enough canister filter, you can also add a more permanent biological filtration media. With this type of product, you would have it as one of the last phases of filtration and you would not do anything to this media other than a simple rinse in removed tank water to get any buildup off of it. There are many products sold that are excellent biological filtration but if you are not overstocked, your regular sponges and polypads will be sufficient surface area for the N-bacteria colonies. I do not have the "extra" biological filter media in any of my filters.

SPONGE FILTERS -

Sponge filter cleaning should be treated similar to cleaning the sponges in canister filters but obviously on a much smaller scale. The safest thing to do would be to squeeze the sponge in some removed tank water to remove the detritus from the sponge but keeping the majority of the N-Bacteria alive on the cell walls of the sponge. Then replace it and you are good to go!

MULTIPLE FILTER SYSTEMS ON A TANK -
If you have more than one filter system on your tank, then you could do alternating filter cleaning or changing and more thoroughly cleaning the filters since the other one will still be fully cycled. I do this on my Goldfish/Pleco tank since they are such big waste producers. I alternate between the two filter systems and clean 1/2 the filter media every two weeks. This means that I am only doing a good cleaning on 1/4th of my overall filter media volume and one of the filter systems does not even get touched every other week.

UGF's (Under Gravel Filters) -
These systems are not as common any more but some forum polls show up to 40% of fish keepers still use UGF's on some of their tanks.

There is also a reverse flow UGF that is making a comeback in the industry. I am thinking about trying this system if I ever have to breakdown my Goldfish/Pleco tank. The purpose of the reverse flow UGF is to push water up through the gravel which raises the detritus into the water column to be sucked into the intake and filtered out of the water before the "clean" water is returned to the tank through the gravel. This could save time in gravel vacuuming since it would not have to be done very often with this type of system but it does not work for planted tanks where the plants with a normal substrate. It would work if the plants are containerized plants.

The main thing with a regular UGF, that sucks the water down through the gravel (so it's not as good for a planted tank either), is to properly maintain them by vacuuming the gravel really good with the vacuum tube pushed down through the gravel to the UGF plate and make sure you suck up all of the detritus/mulm that gets caught between the gravel/plate/bottom.

Many of the older UGF filters on smaller tanks were under-powered with only an airline bubbler to power the up-tube siphon and these did not create enough suction which allowed excess mulm to build up under the gravel and UGF plates. Modern UGF's are powered by power heads, canister filters or HOB power filters which help eliminate the danger of mulm buildup but the gravel should still be vacuumed well all the way down to the UGF plate to make sure the excess mulm and detritus are removed.

If I was to use a UGF, I would also modify it in a couple of ways. I would make the holes in the UGF plate larger at the furthest points from the uplift tube so they get more water circulating from those furthest points to help eliminate the likelihood of mulm buildup. I would also add a box trickle filter of some sort so the returning water would flow through that trickle filter before returning to the water column.

Here's a forum thread about what happened to someone when they tried to "clean" or replace their UGF... http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5895&highlight and some "scientific" info about what is in the mulm... http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2349

Here are several sites on UGF maintenance & cleaning:

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-an-under-gravel-filter-or-ugf.htm

http://www.bestfish.com/ug.html (page one of two)

http://www.bestfish.com/ug2.html (page two of two)

http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar/lifttube.html (no longer working)

http://www.goldfishparadise.com/care/filter.php (no longer working)

CARBON -

As you may have noticed, I do not mention keeping carbon in my filter systems. Most experience freshwater fish keepers aren't keeping activated carbon in their filters anymore and rely on more frequent PWC's to keep the water quality in good condition. It's just another thing that the filter people are trying to sell you to keep revenue pouring in... pardon the pun. I haven't had any activated carbon in any of my four filter systems on two tanks for over two years and all of my fish are fine. I do keep some around in case of an emergency or if I need to filter some medicine out of one of my tanks but other than that, it sits in the closet. Of course, I am vigilant about doing weekly 25% PWC's so I am removing any organic buildup that some people may rely on carbon to remove. Also, most carbon products available to consumers will leach phosphates into your tank, which can cause algae problems... and some carbon products have been reported to actually leach the chemicals they had previously absorbed which can cause other health problems.

If your filter cartridges have the activated carbon sealed up inside of a plastic housing, it might take some minor "surgery" to open the plastic housing up so you can dump out the carbon. I have done this to several different manufacturers cartridges so I think it's possible with any of them. This way, you still have the plastic frame and floss/sponge material that can be re-used many, many times using the swooshing method above. It's better for your fish and your wallet.

If you have juvenile fish in your tank(s), then running carbon or Purigen is encourage to help remove the hormone buildup which can lead to stunting and health issues. Remember carbon should probably be changed every two weeks. I am now using Purigen in my tanks since it is better than carbon and is rechargeable so it costs less.

EDIT ADDED ABOUT "CARBON" ON 03/14/2007 -
I've been reading more and more about a product from Seachem, called Purigen, which is a rechargeable granular additive that can be used in filter systems and from what I've been reading on forum threads, it does work as advertised. It's not like zeolite which can starve your N-bacteria colonies. This product is more like activated carbon but is advertised to work 500% better than activated carbon. Since it is rechargeable and actually filters organic compounds better and LASTS LONGER than carbon, I'm not opposed to using a product like this and may actually try it soon.

Here is the manufacturer's webpage and information: http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/Purigen.html

Purigen™ is a premium synthetic adsorbent that is unlike any other filtration product. It is not a mixture of ion exchangers or adsorbents, but a unique macro-porous synthetic polymer that removes soluble and insoluble impurities from water at a rate and capacity that exceeds all others by over 500%. Purigen™ controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds. Purigen’s™ impact on trace elements is minimal. It significantly raises redox. It polishes water to unparalleled clarity. Purigen™ darkens progressively as it exhausts, and is easily renewed by treating with bleach. Purigen™ is designed for both marine and freshwater use. This product is sold by volume. Cited weight is minimal weight.

Directions: Rinse before use. Use in a fine mesh filter bag. Each 1 L treats up to 4,000 L (1,000 gallons*) for up to six months. Exhaustion is indicated by a pronounced discoloration of the beads to dark brown or black.

Regeneration: Soak in a 1:1 bleach:water solution for 24 hours in a non-metalic container in a well ventilated area and away from children. Rinse well, then soak for 8 hours with a solution containing 2 tablespoons of ChlorGuard™, Prime™, or equivalent dechlorinator per cup of water. Rinse well. For freshwater use, soak for 4 hours with a solution containing 1 tablespoon of buffer per cup of water (Discus Buffer™, Neutral Regulator™, or Acid Buffer™). Original color and full activity should now be restored and Purigen™ is ready for reuse. Caution: some slime coat products may permanently foul Purigen™ and render regeneration difficult. Do not reuse if odor of chlorine is detectable. In case of doubt, soak beads in small quantity of water and test for residual chlorine with a chlorine test kit.

Purigen FAQ's - http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/Purigen_faq.html
Purigen MSDS (Manufacturer's Safety Data Sheet)(pdf) - http://www.seachem.com/support/MSDS/Purigen.doc.pdf

GoldLenny replies:
I like how it changes color (darkens) as it gets dirty so you can tell when it's time to regenerate/recharge, or replace if you don't mind the extra expense. This is something carbon has lacked and what led to so many fish keepers not using it. The Purigen "regeneration" process isn't easy and since it uses Bleach, it must be done properly and carefully... including RINSING IT WELL, then the 8 hour soak in the dechlor solution and 4 hour soak in a "buffer" (for FW users) . From what I've been reading in forums, it's best to have two mesh bags working so that you can exchange them and then properly regenerate and rinse the "dirty" Purigen and then put the "cleaned" Purigen on the side for the next change. A 100ml package should be enough Purigen to make two mesh bags for a 50G aquarium.

Yahoo Shopping Search -prices for Purigen... lowest price (on this date) was DrsFosterSmith.com $5.89 for 100ml package (treats 100G for up to 6 months) - http://shopping.yahoo.com/search?p=purigen&cop=mss

PetsMart.com has Purigen for $6.29 for the 100ml package or $12.59 for the 250ml package and their retail stores will match the online price if you bring the printed page. The 100ml package comes in a media bag already where the 250ml package is in bulk form so you would have to purchase media bags also. Here is the PetsMart.com Purigen page as a TinyURL link... http://preview.tinyurl.com/3aakqj

ZEOLITE -
Zeolite is a white granular product that many consumers are often sold as a solution to ammonia issues in their tanks. While it does absorb ammonia, it gives you a false sense of security as it will "fill up" and then quit absorbing ammonia causing ammonia spikes in your tanks. If you did not use zeolite, you would have built up a proper sized N-Bacteria colony in your filter media which would have taken care of any potential ammonia issues. Further, when people get ammonia spikes, they are shortly followed by nitrite spikes. Then they are told to add salt to the tank to keep the fish from getting nitrite poisoning. The problem with this is that salt will cause zeolite to release ALL of the absorbed ammonia causing the ammonia level to spike even higher. Once again, it's a product that I keep on hand in case of emergencies... like when I went 15 days with no power after Hurricane Katrina, but it's not something I run in my filters on a normal basis.
HORMONES AND STUNTING, STRESS AND HEALTH ISSUES -
I've been learning a lot more about hormone issues that happen in overstocked or undersized tanks. In various fishery related studies, it has been reported that your fish release a hormone into the water column and when this hormone level reaches a certain point, the fish begin to get stressed and stunting issues start to develop. Stress leads to immune system issues and fish start to get sick. The best way to solve this problem is to NOT overstock your tank or have fish that are supposed to get BIG in a small tank. If you are stuck with this problem, then doing frequent PWC's (sometimes daily, depending on your situation), will reduce these hormone levels. It is also reported that products like carbon and more advanced chemical filtration products like Purigen, will remove some or all of these hormones but this needs further research. The best and simplest solution to removing these hormone levels is through frequent PWC's.
In conclusion:
There's a saying... "Dilution is the solution to pollution"... which certainly holds true in the fish keeping hobby. Fresh, clean and frequent PWC's (partial water changes) will do more to keeping your fish healthy than anything else out there.

I hope this helps save a few fish!

GoldLenny

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SELECT COMMENTS -

Mahstah posted:

"If your filter cartridges have the activated carbon sealed up inside of a plastic housing, it might take some minor "surgery" to open the plastic housing up so you can dump out the carbon. I have done this to several different manufacturers cartridges so I think it's possible with any of them. This way, you still have the plastic frame and floss/sponge material that can be re-used many, many times using the swooshing method above. It's better for your fish and your wallet."

Hi goldlenny-

Do you suggest NOT using carbon filters unless one wants to remove chemicals (malachite green or algae killer)? Is the carbon filter not needed because the good bacteria can fully take care of the ammonia?

-Mahstah

Hailey's Reply:

Carbon does not remove ammonia at all (or at least if it does, it is an immeasurable amount). I don't believe there is any reason to run carbon on an aquarium unless trying to remove a chemical like medication. It takes trace elements out of the water that fish need, it stops working fast, and worse yet, after it stops working it may leech the chemicals back into the water.

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BadSaturn3 posted:

I am a little new to Aquariums. I was wondering about filter care on a Bio-Wheel. Thank You very much.

GoldLenny's reply:

I need to update that article to include Bio-Wheels since they are gaining favor.

Basically, you would NEVER do anything to the Bio-Wheel, itself. If you are going to have the power off for very long, take it off and float it in your tank or in some removed tank water, to keep it wet so the N-bacteria in the actual wheel do not die off.

Marineland, also the inventors of Bio-Spira, came up with the Bio-Wheel idea... mainly as a way of selling filter cartridges since "now" you can change out their skimpy filter cartridges every two to four weeks without killing off your N-bacteria colony.... since they live mostly in the Bio-Wheel.

I have a Bio-Wheel 200, as the secondary filter system on my 65G Goldfish and Pleco tank and all I did after the first two weeks, is I used a razor knife to cut three sides of the black plastic slotted section and dumped the charcoal out. I added a piece of poly pad filter material into that square and put the cartridge back in the holder. Then I just do the filter maintenance as described in the article as needed. It's the same filter cartridge that came with the system many months ago. I also rolled up a 2" piece of poly pad, like a cigar, and put it in the little semi-circle overflow cut-out next to the intake tube. This forces the water through the filter, or over the top of the filter cartridge, when it starts to get clogged... but at least it keeps the Bio-Wheel spinning. I've found that if the water starts to back-up out of the overflow cut-out, then not much water goes through the filter and the bio-wheel does not spin properly, which could cause it to dry out and you would lose much of your N-Bacteria colony.

Thanks for asking about the Bio-Wheel systems.

GoldLenny

By rbishop on 05-05-2007, 06:40 PM ( This comment was added to my published article on AquariaCentral.com )
Well, it is probably semantics, but..UGFs...I think they are more popular than most folks think. Most any site I go to that has a poll, 40% of the respondents are still using them.
I still see folks claiming (repeating) that they clog up. I have never seen this to be the case in my experience, but feel those who fail to properly maintain them, could have an issue.
I believe RUGF are a great step forward in filtration, pushing the debri into the water column for removal by other power filters. This is extremely useful in high bioload tanks.In either case, there is no beating utilizing the entire surface area of the substrate as a bio filter. A lot of people and filter manufacturers talk about all the surface area their external filters create, but never acknowledge that your bacteria is only equal to your bio-load. I can run my UGF/RUGfs, and completely bust out any other filter to ground zero without any spikes or many cycles. That tells me the substrate alone holds enough surface area to maintain my tank.
Canisters..Kind of like above, the ability to put in multiple forms of media is vastly over rated. So many of us push letting your fish adjust to your normal parameters and then recommend filters that have the ability for 15 dozen medias. If you have a solid water problem and need to buffer, fine; or to create some conditions for spawning with peat or other products, they are nice. But to spend big bucks on some of the canisters out there is a waste, when a simple Mag 350 will suffice, by 10 fold. Or put the bucks into a small wet/dry. When run in parallel with a RUFG, there is no need for the fancy, high dollar canisters.
Carbon...This is a tricky one. To start, let me say, I run carbon in all my filters. Shock! $$$$ But I have clarity that is unachievable any other way.
The general theory is that a water change will do you just as well. I tend to disagree. If your water has impurities and discoloration, adding more of the same water doesn't make things better.
Also, carbon removes impurities we can not see and we can not test for. The nitrate test are an easy and conveinient method, but don't reflect other TDS DOCs we need to remove. Much as we have carbon filters on our drinking water systems. We can't see the difference, we don't test for it, but lab results show different. It is true that most cartridges have a poor quality and lack ample volume to be effective, but that shouldn't dissuade use of it.
Fish produce the growth inhibiting hormone for their full life span. Carbon should be used the full time for ultimate growth. The removal of impurities is a chemical/ionic bond. You can not release back into the water unless you heat to about 2400 degrees F.
Just my thoughts and experiences. I think we need to look at pros and cons, but not rule out a filtration method directly. Individual applications create the need for flexibility.
GoldLenny replies:
Thanks for your comments.
GoldLenny

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Last edited on November 14, 2008
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