Showing posts with label Ammonia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ammonia. Show all posts

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Bio-Spira - LATE BREAKING NEWS.... GOOD OR BAD? I'm not sure!!!

ADDED JUNE 2008 -

DR. TIM'S AQUATICS new product, Dr. Tim's One And Only is my suggested replacement for Bio-Spira. More info - http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/productguide/H2O-PURE_Products/H2O-PURE_Products.html which is the new website for Dr. Tim Hovanec, who was the scientist who invented the original formula for Bio-Spira, as well as the Bio-Wheel filter system. Now that Tetra has merged with Marineland, I suspect that Marineland's once decent quality products will diminish in quality. Instead of looking around for Bio-Spira, just get Dr. Tim's One And Only and use it instead.

Below is just a rough draft of recent forum posts in the AquaticLife YahooGroup which came up in this thread.. http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/message/26973, with the new info I've learned about the "new" Bio-Spira which will be coming out soon. Of course, since these are copies of my emails, the latest posts are on top so start at the bottom if you want to read things in chronological order. I've highlighted the pertinent "Late Breaking News" as red and bold text so you can scroll down and read it much quicker. Read this entire thread for more info about Bio-Spira, the nitrogen cycle, etc.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 11:47 AM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Actually, the original Bio-Spira had active strains of Nitrosomonas, Nitrospira and Nitrosospira. It was these latter two that set Bio-Spira apart... well that and the fact that it was kept refrigerated to keep the bacteria in hibernation so they'd live in the package until used. Read that long interview with Dr. Hovenac that I linked to in my previous post (copied below). I really am waiting to see how Marineland or Tetra explains that this "new" product will work and keep the bacteria alive on the shelf.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lana Gibbons
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 10:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

AUGH. :)

I meant "the only bacteria in Bio-spira is nitrospira, so it is missing nitrosomonas"

-Lana

> AFAIK, the only bacteria in Bio-spira is nitrosomonas (someone please
> correct me if I'm wrong here).

Carmen,

For pet and human bacteria supplements the bacteria are typically anaerobic
- they don't need oxygen to survive. I'm not so sure about septic bacteria, but it seems to me there wouldn't be that much aeration in the tank, so I'd guess it is also anaerobic.

From what I understand, aquarium bacteria is supposed to be aerobic since O2 is required for oxidizing nitrite to nitrate. What I don't understand is the difference between the standard Nitrosomonas/Nitrobacter vs. Bio-Spira which contains NitroSpira. Nitrobacter and NitroSpira basically do the same job (convert nitrite->nitrate), the only difference I can find is that NitroSpira grows slower and tends to be the nitrite oxidizing bacteria in natural samples more often than Nitrobacter. Nitrospira is slowed by high ammonia levels, which Nitrosomonas is needed to handle. AFAIK, the only bacteria in Bio-spira is nitrosomonas (someone please correct me if I'm wrong here).

-Lana

>
> Or (from pet odor control products) maybe they're using encapsulation
> technology, "wrapping" it with a small amount of oxygen that won't be
> depleted before the expiration date?
>
> Carmen

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 10:37 AM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Carmen,

I'm not sure about these so-called digestive aid bacteria since I've never done any research or reading about them (I'm down here in Southern Louisiana where we put hot sauce and lots of spices on just about everything so I've never needed any added digestive bacteria.. lol) and whether they will "live" outside of their normal environment (your intestines) but I do know that nitrifying bacteria need ammonia and oxygen to live. I know some bacteria will live in a dry environment and then become active under the right conditions (aka yeast) and nitrifying bacteria are an airborne bacteria in nature but there's a big difference between airborne bacteria and packaged products. In airborne conditions, there's just the right amount of moisture, plenty of O2 and there's an ammonia source from the nitrogen cycle that exists in all of nature.

It took Marineland ten years to develop the original Bio-Spira and their patent will be expiring soon.. I'm guessing in the next couple of years since the product came out in 2002 so it's at least six years old and most patents are only good for ten years. They were never really able to get it introduced to the mass marketplace due to the cost and other inhibiting factors associated with keeping it refrigerated during shipping and at retail levels. I would imagine that over the past ten years, while Bio-Spira held the patent on the hibernation method of keeping the nitrifying bacteria "alive" throughout the shipping and distribution process, all of the other so-called bacteria-in-a-bottle companies would have been figuring out a way to keep theirs alive without the need for refrigeration and NONE of them have done so... so I'm not sure how Marineland could have finally figured out a way to do it but I guess anything is possible so I'll wait and see some published reports from hobbyists and/or peer reviewed studies to come out. Here's a long interview with Dr. Timothy Hovenac, the lead scientist that helped develop Bio-Spira... http://aquamaniacs.net/forum/cms_view_article.php?aid=36

The fact that they are releasing the "new" Bio-Spira under Tetra's brand name makes me think it will just be another bottle of JUNK that they try to sell unsuspecting newbies. Of course, Bio-Spira did learn it was not just the nitrosomonas bacteria but the nitrospira and nitrosospira bacteria that started the nitrogen cycle so maybe, just maybe, if they do have some of these proper bacteria in a bottle, it might work but I'm very, very skeptical at this point. Why would they not use their own name? They already have really good brand recognition, with many hobbyists, as the only product that works as advertised so I'm not sure why they'd give that up... haven't they ever heard of "New Coke"? I'd like to see what Dr. Timothy Hovenac has to say about the new formula of Bio-Spira.

I know the other so-called bacteria-in-a-bottles do not work. For example, with the original Bio-Spira, you could add it one day and then start adding ammonia at up to 5ppm the next day and the tank would "cycle" properly (ammonia>nitrite>nitrate). I've read many posts from hobbyists who tried this experiment with the other bacteria-in-a-bottle products and NOTHING happened to the added ammonia the next day because there simply were NO live bacteria in the bottles. Eventually the tank would cycle but that would happen due to the airborne nitrifying bacteria eventually inhabiting the tank and growing large colonies. Most of the other bacteria-in-a-bottles did not even have the proper nitrifying bacteria.

Hey... now that's something we could do. Bottle air and sell it! Just kidding of course since the bottled air would eventually run out of O2 and ammonia as the nitrifying bacteria live and they would eventually die off. Hey, wait a minute.... we could sell bottles of air that aren't sealed so the nitrifying bacteria have a constant supply of fresh air and suspended ammonia so they would live. Or we could sell bottled air that has to be kept refrigerated to put the nitrifying bacteria into hibernation.

Oh well.. I don't have the patent yet so I'm making this special licensing offer to anyone else. You are welcome to use my idea of selling "GoldLenny's 100% Natural Air" complete with suspended nitrifying bacteria, oxygen and ammonia for use in jump starting the nitrogen cycle in aquariums. I do want a 5% royalty though! ;-)

I guess this belongs more on my Rants & Raves blog. LOL

On a side note, since I don't have 5-10 empty 10G tanks sitting around, maybe someone out here can go out and buy a bottle of each of the current so-called bacteria-in-a-bottle products and try this simple experiment. Set up the tanks running with a filter, add the product, wait the prescribed time period and then add 5ppm of ammonia and test it the next day to see if any of the ammonia was converted through the nitrogen cycle.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Carmen H
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 8:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Been thinking on this one. I'm a dog person, not a chemist, but here's something I thought of...
Most high-end holistic dog foods contain probiotics (bacteria). They are applied after the food cools to avoid being damaged by heat.

Eagle Pack also sells them in a dried powder form to assist with either food transition and fix for upset tummies. The bacteria are in "suspended animation" due to being dried. Maybe they've figured out a way to suspend it similarly so that it is dormant and doesn't require oxygen. A liquid is obviously different but ??? Come to think of it, Septibac for septic systems is available in powder OR liquid...I've never done a pile of research on the efficacy of it but I spray it on my yard in the spring to help digest leftover winter waste after the major spring cleanup and it seems to work...

Or (from pet odor control products) maybe they're using encapsulation technology, "wrapping" it with a small amount of oxygen that won't be depleted before the expiration date?

Carmen

On Sat, Apr 5, 2008 at 12:02 AM, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> wrote:

> Bruce,
>
> There simply is not a way to have a room temp bottle of live
> nitrifying bacteria that would have a shelf life of more than a few
> days. The science simply doesn't support it.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 11:02 PM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Bruce,

There simply is not a way to have a room temp bottle of live nitrifying bacteria that would have a shelf life of more than a few days. The science simply doesn't support it.
The bacteria need high O2 levels and feed off of ammonia... but if the ammonia level is above 5ppm, it starts to have a negative effect on the bacteria's colony growth and lifespan. Further, the bacteria colony is capable of doubling its size every 24-48 hours so even if they only put one or two nitrifying bacteria in a 16 oz. bottle of 5ppm ammonia solution, based on geometric progression, the colony would rapidly grow and consume all of the ammonia in a very short period of time.

Show me a product that has live bacteria living in the bottle after a couple of months in production, distribution and sitting on a shelf and I'll take back my words but frankly, I don't think such a product exists. I've tried several of the other so-called bottled bacteria products over the years and NONE of them worked as advertised... except Bio-Spira.

This is what was so GREAT about the original Bio-Spira and that it was kept refrigerated to keep the bacteria in hibernation so they did not consume all of the ammonia in the package until it was time to add the package to the aquarium. There were peer reviewed scientific reports proving that Bio-Spira actually had live nitrifying bacteria.

I've never seen any peer reviewed reports on any of the other so-called bacteria-in-a-bottle products. Once again, I'll take back my words if you can show me such reports on the products you claim work.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of bruce cohen
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 10:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Not all all bacteria in a bottle are pure JUNK The tropical science company have an excellent line of bacterias in a bottle both for saltwater and fresh including freshwater spawning aid as well as pro botics that protect fish. they even have a gravel product that does what it says cleans the gravel without increasing nitrates. it apears that marineland may have figured out a way to put the bacteria in a statis but I do know that Jungle Labs are probally not going to be happy when they have to re name there product since theirs were on the market first then they should have the rights to calling there product start right.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> > wrote:

More late breaking news about Bio-Spira...

I wonder if it's going to work as well as the original product or if it's just going to another bacteria-in-a-bottle that doesn't work. It could be why they are releasing it under Tetra's label since Tetra will pretty much sell anything in a bottle... look at their Easy Balance with Nitraban product which is pure JUNK!!!

Here is the reply I got from Marineland...

Hello,

We are relaunching bio-spira. It is in a new package and reformulated.

It will no longer need to be refrigerated, and hopefully, soon on every store shelf across the nation. The freshwater version will be branded Tetra and called start right, while the saltwater version will be branded Instant Ocean and still be called Bio-Spira.

They held off on adding it to the webpage because of this change.

Regards,

Robert Huber
United Pet Group, Aquatics Div.
Senior Consumer Relations Specialist
Robert.Huber@Tetra.net <
mailto:Robert.Huber%40Tetra.net> 1-800-526-0650 ext. 6126

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [
mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com <mailto:goldlenny%40gmail.com> ]
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 11:29 AM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <
mailto:%27AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> '
Subject: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Mike,

I was shocked when I saw your post so I did some Googling and it looks like the rumor may be partially correct.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/ <http://www.drsfostersmith.com/> was carrying Bio-Spira up until recently but now it's no longer on their website either. When I looked at http://www.marineland.com/, <http://www.marineland.com,/> there's no mention of Bio-Spira either. WTF!!

Then I called Marineland's 800 number and found out some interesting stuff.

For the past couple of years, Marineland has been working on a way to bottle Bio-Spira so it did not have to be refrigerated, since the refrigeration aspect was a big problem getting Bio-Spira into ALL pet stores and/or selling it easily online.

According to the person I spoke to, there is still some of the "old" product available at some retailers and online sources but he could not give me any of the online sources because his computer was acting up. The new Marineland website still has the store locator function and he suggested looking for a retailer in the area and contacting them to see if any have or might have access to some of the remaining inventory of the old Bio-Spira.

It will be interesting to see how they package it and their explanation as to why it doesn't have to be refrigerated since the big explanation for why Bio-Spira worked all along and why all of the other bacteria-in-a-bottle products didn't work was because it was refrigerated and the bacteria were kept in hibernation. The room temperature stuff could not keep the bacteria alive if there ever was live bacteria in the room temp bottles in the first place.

He also said that they just revamped their website and did not put Bio-Spira on it yet since the new product isn't available yet and they have shipped their final inventory of the old product. I told him they should put a press release or something on a link to Bio-Spira on their website so people will know, otherwise the internet rumor mill will have all kinds of misinformation out there in a matter of minutes.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog -
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/ <http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Deenerz@aol.com <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 4:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Sissy,

I heard a new batch has not been made in about two years and none is scheduled to be made at this time. I heard a rumor that Dr. Fosters and Smith might have an alternative but have not had a chance to check myself.

-Mike

If you can find Marineland's Bio-spiral, it will set up a bacteria bed instantly. It's a bacteria suspentded in a medium that seeds the nitrifying bacteria strains into your system, that normally takes at least 21 days to establish with starter fish. It is hard to find,and sometimes if

-----Original Message-----
From: Sissy Sathre
>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 11:31 am
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Hi Lisa, a 50 gallon is a perfect size aquarium for a beginner. Much larger margin for mistakes than smaller tanks. I suggest going to :
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsetupindex.htm <http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsetupindex.htm>

You will find "Good" information there from very experienced aquariest.
You'll find different ways of filtering your new aquarium from under ground filters, invented in the 1950's to supply oxygen to your bacteria bed-creating a biological balance, to the newest methods of we/dry filters, bio-wheels,other hang on filters, canister filters and denitrification filters.

If you can find Marineland's Bio-spiral, it will set up a bacteria bed instantly. It's a bacteria suspentded in a medium that seeds the nitrifying bacteria strains into your system, that normally takes at least 21 days to establish with starter fish. It is hard to find,and sometimes if you call Marineland and tell them you cant find it in your area, they will send it to you Free overnight shipping and all. It has a short shelf life and has to be keep cool,so many stores dont carry it. I am the Marineland service rep. in west-Tx. They have sent it to me to give out before for free ! Marineland is the manufacture of commercial lobster tanks, and MARS systems, the wall unites you see in Wal-marts and they manufacture aquariums and aquarium supplies including the Bio-wheel filters.

You can of coarse cycle the fishless way,and speed the process of the nitrogen cycle.
The best way in my opinion is to get a hand full of gravel from a healthy existing aquarium, or exchange bio-wheels from a existing filter. I do both and start my clients tanks out with hardy fish in 24 hours. I only add a few fish to feed the bacteria bed, then make sure no mini cycle is taking place, and then add a few more every couple weeks until is at capacity for the size the fish will grow.

I hope this helps!

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
http://www.aquariumsbysissy.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:48 PM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Hi Lisa,

A good free place to start is to look at profiles for your proposed fish on http://fish.mongabay.com/ Each profile will have a paragraph called SC (Suggested Companions) which will give you a baseline of usually compatible fish to start off with. Remember though... the fish do not always read the same things we do so there will sometimes be problems. The Mongabay profiles also give you recommended tank size, feeding tips, water parameters, etc.

Another good place to start is my "A to Z of Fish Keeping" page on my blog http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/. That one page will cover most aspects of beginner fish keeping and there are links to two different free online tutorials that you can take at your leisure which will walk you through all of the basics. Pay special attention to fishless cycling your new tank and learn the basics of "the nitrogen cycle", called "Cycling" in the fish keeping world. It's the biggest mistake most newbies make by not fishless cycling their tank or trying to cycle with fish and not understanding the arduous process that the fish are going through.

Since you have the tank, you could set it up and get the fishless cycling process going while you take the tutorials and read up more on the types of fish you might want. Make a list of what you like and look around at your locals stores to see what they have. It will take a couple of weeks to fishless cycle the tank and you will probably change your planned stocking several times during this time period.

Don't fall for all the so-called-chemical fixes that the stores try to sell you. Get a decent master test kit now and do a baseline test on your tap water so you will know what you are starting with. I have a blog on doing the baseline testing. Post your before/after numbers here and we'll help you decipher them.

Let us know which books you have. There are about 1,000 bad books for every good book out there... especially when it comes to setting up a new tank since much of what we've learned about the nitrogen cycle in fish keeping has happened in the past 10 or so years. I've got some books published by well known publishers that are plain JUNK. If you want to buy a magazine, get TFH - Tropical Fishkeeping Hobbyist rather than Aquarium Fish Magazine since AFM has some real junk information coming out of it where TFH is usually very reliable. I'm about to do a new blog comparing the two magazines just to show the disparity of information that is out there by popular publications.

Your 50G tank will not be large enough for long term keeping of the Bala Shark since they grow to 16". Here is the profile on the Bala Shark and I've copy/pasted the SC section ... http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Balantiocheilus_melanopterus.html

Here is the profile on Angelfish... scroll down about halfway to the more common angelfish... http://fish.mongabay.com/angelfish.htm A 50G tank, depending on the dimensions, would be a good home for 1-3 angelfish and depending on how many angelfish you go with, you could have other fish also. Angelfish get pretty BIG (6" long x 9" high) and even though they are peaceful cichlids, they are cichlids and are not always angels so they need their space. ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lisa
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

----- Original Message -----
From: Lisa
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:37 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Hi all.

I'm looking at maybe starting a new freshwater tank, and need all the help I can get.
It will probably be a 50 gal or smaller.

I really am a novice at this. So I have no idea where to begin.

I like bala sharks. And would like to know what other species I would be able to keep with them.

Either that or some angels.

So where do I start?

I have some books on freshwater set ups which cover plants and various species of fish. But they don't have a great deal of information. I figured it would be great to talk to people with experience.

First of all. How, when and how much do I need to do a water change?

How do I get the right water conditions?

Tuesday, May 8, 2007

Find Your Tap / Source Water Baseline

http://tinyurl.com/tap-water-baseline

Quite often you are told to test your tank water chemistry (parameters) for things like: 1) ammonia, 2) nitrite, 3) nitrate, 4) pH, 5) temperature, 6) KH and 7) GH... the basic tests that most fish keepers should have.  Something you are not often told is that you should know your tap/source water parameters and what happens to your tap/source water after you fill your tank or do a PWC (partial water change). The pH will usually change a little or a lot. There may be ammonia, nitrite or nitrate in your tap/source water. The KH and GH could change or be non-existent.

To find your tap/source water baseline, you should run your cold water for a minute or two to flush out any stagnant water in your home pipes. Then fill a one gallon bucket or other open top container. You need a large opening to have adequate surface area. After filling the bucket, immediately test it for all of your tests (preferably the seven mentioned above). Record your numbers. Add your dechlor product. Test for ammonia again. Record number.  If you do not have the KH and GH test kits, test for everything you do have... but it's really good to know your KH (Carbonate Hardness) as this helps you know if you have to worry about pH crashes in your tank.  GH (General Hardness) is good to know as some fish do not do as well in really soft or really water.  It's best to know your water baseline and then choose fish that do best in your kind of water so you don't have to worry about your fish's health or get into the water chemistry changing game.

If you have chloramine treated water, when you add your dechlor product, it will break the bond between the chlorine and ammonia so you will get a slight ammonia reading. Normally, it's not more than 0.5ppm (which is easily converted in your biological filtration in an established tank but this level can cause alarm in a new tank depending on the pH and temperature).

Now set the bucket on the side and wait 24 to 48 hours and test the water again and compare the numbers. You could also test it at 24 and 48 hours to get even more information about what happens to your tap/source water once it gets into your tank during PWC's. You can speed up this 48 hour time period by adding an air stone to the bucket to agitate the water constantly. If you don't have an extra air pump and stone, then just stir the water regularly to increase the outgassing of CO2 and any other gases in the water that will outgas once in your aquarium anyhow.

Some tap/source waters have high CO2 levels out of the tap which results in a low pH right out the tap but then as the CO2 outgasses, the pH stabilizes to a higher level. Other tap waters have buffers that raise the pH out of the tap but then these buffers wear out quickly when exposed to light, air and temperature changes and the pH will drop.

Also, if you have tropical fish and regularly add hot water to your cold water to raise the temperature to match the tank temperature, you should know what your hot water parameters are as well. Your hot water heater is basically a distillery that is boiling the water which causes the chemistry to change. Many of the additives to your water will come out of solution and settle in the bottom of your hot water heater. You will notice a faucet on the bottom of your hot water heater. Most people don't do this but you should partially drain your hot water heater once a year to remove this sediment. This sediment will eventually cause your hot water heater to fail. Also, it's not good for your fish. Usually, it's just a matter of hooking up a quality garden hose to the faucet, running it out your back door and then open the faucet to let the sediment and sludge flush out until the water is coming out clear. Read your owners manual or online sources for more information on how to do proper maintenance to your hot water heater.

To learn more about the water quality for your area, in the USA, check here:

http://www.epa.gov/safewater/dwinfo/index.html

I hope this helps.

GoldLenny

Tuesday, April 3, 2007

Filter Profile - Marineland Penguin 200 Bio-Wheel

The following article shows the breakdown, cleaning and reassembly of my Marineland Penguin Bio-Wheel 200 filter system... one of my many filter systems.

Manufacturer's description:
http://www.marineland.com/products/consumer/con_penguinfiltersnew.asp

NEW PERFORMANCE FEATURES
Noise-Reducing Vented Cover For quieter operation

Two-Piece Filter Hood For flip-top filter cartridge access

Adjustable Mid-Level Intake attaches to the Intake Extension Tube to provide increased water circulation.Extra Media Slots (Penguin 200 and 350) for an additional Rite-Size Filter Cartridge or Penguin Refillable Media Cartridge for enhanced chemical filtration.Plus...
Leak Proof, Easy-Care Design.

One-piece tank and motor assembly means no O-rings to fail.

Single moving part removes easily for cleaning.

No oiling or motor maintenance required.

Automatic Self-Starting Feature Restarts automatically.

No messy siphons or valves.

Worry-Free, Safety Engineering.

UL listed; cUL or CSA listed.

Epoxy-sealed, moisture-proof motor ensures safe operation.
Penguin 100 - 100gph (up to 20G tropical or as additional filter on goldfish tank)

Penguin 150 - 150gph (up to 30G tropical or as additional filter on goldfish tank)

Penguin 200 - 200gph (up to 50G tropical or as additional filter on goldfish tank)

Penguin 350 - 350gph (up to 75G tropical or 35G goldfish tank)

The following photos will also show the filter cartridge modifaction that I made to remove the carbon and also how I add extra polypad filter media for increased filtration between the bi-weekly cleanings. The reservoir on this filter is not very large so it does not have a lot of room for very much media but it could hold a small media bag full of some type of bio-media. I just prefer to use extra polypad media which provides both mechanical and biological filtration.

Here is the filter on the tank with the two covers in place. There is a top slotted-cover over the filter reservoir and a separate front cover over the Bio-Wheel, so as it spins, the spray drips back down into the waterfall and tank.



Here is the filter with the two covers removed.















Since this cleaning was going to take longer because of the photographs, I removed the Bio-Wheel and had it floating in the tank, so that it would not dry out and kill the nitrifying bacteria. Usually, I set it in the removed front cover while I'm cleaning the filter. Anytime the fliter is turned off for any length of time (e.g. during transport or a power outtage), the Bio-Wheel should be floated in the tank to keep it from drying out, keep the nitrifying bacteria alive and to help continue "cycling" the ammonia in your tank.


Here is the filter sitting next to the sink, ready to be cleaned.


I first removed the intake tube and impellor assembly. I run water through the tube to flush out any large debris and occasionally I clean it with a bottle brush and clean the impellor housing as well.



Here is the filter cartridge and the extra polypad filter media. I use bulk polypad filter media comprised of blue (coarse) and white (fine) polypad material and cut the large sheet into the sizes I need for my various filter systems. A package of this polypad media is inexpensive.


This shows a top view of the filter and reservoir. I use the "dirty"
extra polypad to clean off the buildup on the waterfall outlet and any other buildup, before I clean the polypad material. If needed, I clean the Bio-Wheel holders with a toothpick to remove any buildup that might slow down the spinning of the Bio-Wheel.


Here are the filter cartridge and extra polypad filter after cleaning under dechlored tap water from my PUR faucet filter. This keeps some of the N-Bacteria alive. I have two filters for this tank and clean one every other week to minimize disruption of the biological filter. If I only have one filter system on a tank, then I only squeeze/swoosh the filter media in removed tank water so I do not kill off any of the good nitrifying bacteria.


Here is the other side of the filter cartridge and polypad filter media.
The blue and white polypad material is a combination coarse/fine mechanical filter media, which also provides additional surface area for growing good nitrifying bacteria.


This shows how I used a razor knife to slice open the black slotted plastic on the back of the filter cartridge so I could dump out the carbon and re-use the filter cartridge over and over and over. Basically, I cut an "H" along the sides and across the middle but a "U" or inverted "U"
could also be done. I thought the "H" would leave the frame structure intact. I do frequent 25% PWC's (partial water changes) so I do not run carbon in all of my filters. I do keep bulk carbon on hand for when I need it and use filter media bags to hold the carbon. This is still the original filter cartridge that came with the system two years ago.


Here is another picture showing the "surgery" I did to the filter cartridge to remove the old carbon, yet allow me to reuse the filter cartridge.


Here is the filter Cartridge and extra polypad media replaced in the reservoir. Note how I have the extra polypad sticking up about an inch above the filter cartridge. I then fold this over the top of the cartridge so that when the filters start to get dirty and the water fills up more in the reservoir, it will eventually overflow the polypads but still get partially filtered by this extra inch of polypad.


This shows the extra inch folded over the top of the filter cartridge.


Here is the filter sytem cleaned and back on the tank. That white buildup is the calcium/mineral buildup from the evaporated hard tap water that I have. I would normally just use a little white vinegar on a paper towel to easily wipe that off.

BTW... that 1/2 filled 10G tank in the background is an H-tank where I have one of my goldfish right now. He's not feeling well and has a fin-tear/rot issue so I have him in the H-tank with a bubble filter so he doesn't have to deal with the over-filtration in the main tank. I'm treating him with MelaFix/PimaFix cocktail and anti-bacterial food for the past three days. He's doing much better but will stay in the H-tank till he's back to his perky self!

Lenny Vasbinder aka GoldLenny in forums

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

Bio-Spira online - Where to buy???

2008-AUGUST - MORE LATE BREAKING NEWS

It seems that Dr. Tim Hovanec and Marineland have parted ways and the bad news is that Marineland has merged into Tetra which I consider to be a lesser quality company.... but the good news is that Dr. Tim has started his own company at http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/ and you can now buy his own version of an improved Bio-Spira-like product called Dr. Tim's One And Only http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/productguide/H2O-PURE_Products/H2O-PURE_Products.html which can also be purchased at most major retailers and online etailers. It doesn't have to be refrigerated and can last for up to six months at room temperatures but does last longer if it is kept refrigerated.

2008-0405 - LATE BREAKING NEWS ABOUT BIO-SPIRA

See the late breaking news here... http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2008/04/bio-spira-late-breaking-news-good-or.html

For years and years, I use to recommend people buy their Bio-Spira from The Fish Store in Tennessee since they had the best prices and lowest shipping costs. I just learned today that they are no longer in business so I went to work finding a new online source for Bio-Spira

After Froogling and Yahoo Shopping searching, I found that DrsFosterSmith.com is the only online source at this time. They are a reputable website but their prices aren't always the best and when I check their online prices just now, http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=15462&Ntt=bio%2Dspira&Ntk=All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&amp;amp;Np=1&N=2004&Nty=1 , it looks like it will cost around $40.00 for a 1 oz package and $50.00 for a 3 oz package, including overnight refrigerated shipping. Not cheap but still much better than spending a month or more humanely fishless cycling or putting you and your fish through the arduous process of cycling with fish.

If you come across other online sources of Bio-Spira, please leave me a comment so I can add that resource to this blog and to my favorites folder.

You can also go to the Marineland.com - Order Bio-Spira page and on the left side, there is a place to enter your zip code to find a retailer but I've found that many of the retailers listed do not actually stock Bio-Spira but do carry other Marineland products. If you ask your local retailer, they may be able to order it for you and save you the expensive shipping charges associated with ordering a single pouch for yourself.

Hope this helps and saves a few "newbies" from having to go through the "cycling with fish"process. They can get Bio-Spira one day and get their fish the next day.

GoldLenny

Mozy.com - FREE, secure, encrypted and automatic online backup of your documents and files. Check out how simple and secure it can be to use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files, photos and folders... or your entire hard drive, every day/night (you set the schedule) while you aren't using your computer... and did I mention... it's FREE. I have been using this product/service since it was in Beta Testing and have been 100% satisfied with the final product!!!

Friday, March 2, 2007

Chlorine - Chloramine Information

I was recently reading the Water Quality Report and Tables for my area, Jefferson Parish (J.P. - Parish is the same as County in the rest of the U.S.), Louisiana, USA, and they had a reading for Chlorine but not for Chloramine. Since I had always understood that my public utility used chloramine as a disinfectant treatment, I wondered why the report listed only chlorine and not chloramine so I fired off a short email to the water department. Here is a reprint of the series of emails.

----------------------------------------------------------

9/24/2006

In the 2005 Water Quality Report and Water Quality Table, there is mention of chlorine but not chloramine. Which chemical does J.P. use to disinfect the water? I have several aquariums and I was told several years ago that J.P. uses chloramines but now I am unsure since reading over the above reports.

Thank you in advance for your reply.

Lenny V.

Mozy.com - FREE, secure, encrypted and automatic online backup of your documents and files. Check out how simple and secure it can be to use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files, photos and folders... or your entire hard drive, every day/night (you set the schedule) while you aren't using your computer... and did I mention... it's FREE. I have been using this product/service since it was in Beta Testing and have been 100% satisfied with the final product!!!

-----------------------------------------------------------

9/25/2006

Hi Lenny

Jefferson has always used chloramines in the drinking water distribution system. The Water Quality Report lists total chlorine, which includes both free chlorine and combined chlorine (chloramines), because the EPA regulation and the maximum contaminant level are based on total chlorine. Basically the sum of both free chlorine and chloramines should not exceed 4 mg/L on an annual average. Sorry about the confusion, but we have to use the federal regulatory language, even though at times it may be somewhat confusing to the general public. If you have any additional questions, let me know.

Wayne K.Water
Quality Scientist IV
Jefferson Parish Water Dept.

------------------------------------------------------------

9/25/2006

Thank you for your quick reply.

Since you show the combined level of free chlorine and chloramine added together at 4mg/l, I was wondering if you could tell me the level of chloramine added and what percentage of the chloramine is ammonia. I keep a couple of fish tanks and whenever I test my tap, I normally get a reading of around 0.5ppm (mg/l) of ammonia. Is that figure consistent with the chloramine you all are adding? Other than after Katrina, would there ever be a reason for higher chloramine dosing by JP? When you do a pipe repair, do you treat the affected area with chlorine or chloramine? And at what percentage increase over the "normal" level of dosing?

I'm just trying to get an idea since my tap water conditioner uses different dosages for chlorine and chloramine... with chloramine requiring a dose about four times higher.... but it does not say on the bottle about what level of chloramines that it treats. Is there a national standard for dosing chloramine by public utilities? As you probably know, chloramine does not break down as easily as chlorine but as long as we fishkeepers are able to break the chlorine/ammonia bond with our "chemicals", our fish do OK since the nitrogen cycle in the tank will break down the ammonia and the tap water treatment will neutralize the chlorine.

Lenny V.

-------------------------------------------------

9/26/2006

Monochloramine is the form of chloramine used by many water treatment systems in their distribution systems. Monochloramine is formed by mixing chlorine and ammonia in a ratio of 4 parts chlorine to 1 part ammonia by weight. At this ratio an excess of ammonia remains unreacted at a level of about 0.5 ppm, which you have measured. Water leaves the treatment plant with a chloramine residual no greater than 3 ppm and a free ammonia level of 0.5 ppm. There would never be any reason to raisethis level. It was not raised after Katrina.

Extensive waterlineflushing with the normal chloramine residual level was quite adequate to remove any contamination that may have been present. As this water travels through the distribution system, both chloramines and ammonia are gradually reduced; however since free ammonia is released when chloramine breaks down, the free ammonia level across the distribution system remains about the same at about 0.5 ppm. We use free chlorine to disinfect waterlines after a repair at a very high level which is undrinkable. Therefore all of this water is flushed out of the repaired section before it is put back into service, so you will never see freechlorine in the distribution system.

Wayne K.Water
Quality Scientist IV
Jefferson Parish Water Dept.

-------------------------------------------------------------

I hope this helps some people understand the difference between Chloramine and Chlorine and how the public utility companies utilize both chemicals in their water treatment process and repairs.

It did give me additional information about their post-Katrina water treatment. I was originally told they had raised the Chloramine level by three times but this gentleman says they did not and that they flushed out leaking areas with high levels of chlorine but it never got into the actual water supply so I'm not sure why my two Golden Mystery Snails ended up dying after I finally did my first 25% PWC around four weeks after the hurricane. I thought it might have been because the chemicals were still too high for them but now I have to wonder. Maybe it was because they were not getting enough food for those three to four weeks that I had cut back the feeding so much to keep the water from deteriorating.

Goldlenny

-----------------------------------------

Hailey's Reply:

Thanks for sharing this...it was very interesting and informative.As for your snails, I bet it was lack of food. Snails are incredibly tolerant of anything wrong with the water. They can live through massive extremes of temperature, ammonia (as my snail in the fishless cycling tank proved), nitrite, nitrate, and even chlorine. I have heard stories of live snails showing up on plants that were just bleached! The one thing they are very sensitive to is starvation. I killed off all of the pond snails that were taking over my tank more than a year ago by starving them (I fed the fish just enough for them, and had no shrimp at the time, so no food was allowed to stay in the tank after the fish were through eating). Within weeks, I had no snails at all. I added malaysian trumpet snails later, and those are the only snails I have seen in my tank since. Of course, I think I had help because my gouramis seemed to have learned to hunt pond snails.

¯`·.¸. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>¸.·´¯`·.,..·´¯`·..
><((((º>·´¯`·.,..·´¯`·..><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>

To learn more about the water quality for your area, in the USA, check here:

http://www.epa.gov/safewater/dwinfo/index.html

Hope this helps.

GoldLenny

Mozy.com - FREE, secure, encrypted and automatic online backup of your documents and files. Check out how simple and secure it can be to use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files, photos and folders... or your entire hard drive, every day/night (you set the schedule) while you aren't using your computer... and did I mention... it's FREE. I have been using this product/service since it was in Beta Testing and have been 100% satisfied with the final product!!!

Thursday, March 1, 2007

Everyone NEEDS a decent Master Test Kit

NOTICE-THIS IS AN OLD "ARTICLE" THAT I DID BACK IN JUNE 2005 THAT I AM REPRINTING ON MY BLOG. SOME OF THE "OLD" LINKS DO NOT WORK ANYMORE SO I'M ADDING NEW LINKS TO CURRENT PRICES. IF A LINK DOES NOT WORK, PLEASE LEAVE A COMMENT SO I CAN UPDATE IT.

UPDATE - 2009 - WalMart.com has the best prices on the API Master Test Kit and the Tetra-Laborette Master Test Kit, for around $15.00 and $17.00 respectively.  They offer FREE shipping to your local WalMart store.  I highly recommend either of these kits with the API being most recommended.  You would have to add on the optional GH/KH Combo kit to the API and the Nitrate kit to the T-L.

-------------

I've been doing some online shopping from "Clearance" pages from several popular web sites and I have also seen these prices on Master Test Kits that everyone should have. The basic tests that are needed are ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph (high and low), KH and GH. There are many other things happening in our tanks we cannot easily test for but these basic tests will go a long way in keeping our tanks healthy and happy.

Also, I know that my local PetsMart will match their internet prices for anything so I always look on PetsMart.com for my items before I go there. Print the page and show the cashier and they'll reduce their store price.

As you will see, I did not do any research on the "dip sticks" as every brand I've tried have not lived up to my expectations. They seem to give very inconsistent readings. I think everyone should have a decent Master Test Kit using test tubes and liquid reagent to get more accurate test results.

*****************************************

Tetra-Laborette Test Kit -

A complete test kit for freshwater aquariums. Kit includes ammonia, nitrite, pH, carbonate hardness and general hardness tests. Also includes a testing booklet, log book, syringe dispenser, and two test vials.

I received this test kit and along with doing the above tests, there is also a conversion chart to give you your CO2 reading using the pH and KH readings. Also, the pH test on this kit is not as accurate as the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit IMO.

(OLD LINK NO LONGER WORKS) http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=19617;category_id=3233;pcid1=;pcid2=

Here is BigAlsOnline.com new link for the Tetra-Laborette Master Test Kit for $14.39 now:

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18538/si1379248/cl0/tetralaboretttestkit

But I also found this one online:

http://www.arcatapet.com/item.cfm?cat=573 Same Kit but $13.92 US.

NOTICE - I did order this along with a few other items from BigAlsOnline since the "Master" kit, below, that I have did not test for GH or KH. This one DOES NOT test for Nitrates which is one of the more common tests in the long run.

****************************************

BigAl's also has the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Master Test Kit at a good price as well.... not the lowest but a good price none the less. This old link was for when it was on sale for only $12.99 but that sale is over.

(LINK NO LONGER WORKS) http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=19383;category_id=3233;pcid1=;pcid2=

Here is BigAlsOnline.com new link for the API FreshWater Master Test Kit for $15.99... still a pretty good price!:

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18538/si1380887/cl0/aquariumpharmaceuticalsfreshwatermastertestkit
*****************************************************************

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Freshwater Master Test Kit at Wal-Mart for $17.64 -

The Freshwater Master Test Kit Includes Tests for: Freshwater pH, High Range pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, GH (general hardness) and KH (carbonate hardness) (You will need a separate Nitrate test kit)

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp?product_id=3635493&cat=202105&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;type=1&dept=5440&path=0%3A5440%3A202074%3A202105#long_descr

(NOTICE - I bought one of these at my local PetsMart, $24.99, when I first got into the hobby and it did not test for GH or KH... but it did instead test for Nitrates so there may be a typo or different "Master" test kits from API or API may have changed the packaging on this test kit.)

*****************************************

$11.09 Mini Freshwater Test Lab -
$29.79 Deluxe Freshwater Test Lab -

The Deluxe Freshwater Test helps serious aquatic hobbyists to maintain the healthiest tanks. All inclusive kit contains tests for pH, ammonia, nitrite, hardness GH & KH, iron, CO2, and chlorine.

(LINK NO LONGER WORKS AND I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIND THESE KITS ONLINE ANY LONGER) http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441776885&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302030068&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023693&bmUID=1119364370490

(NOTICE - I could not find a brand name on the above two kits or any information on the Mini kit but these do perform many different tests compared to other kits.)

******************************************

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Freshwater Master Test Kit at PetsMart.com for only $13.49 as I write this Blog but their regular online price is still only $15.99 and remember that most PetsMart's retail stores will match their online prices if you bring in their printed online page -

Freshwater Master Test Kit is a complete kit for testing tap water & aquarium water. Tests water 6 different ways to protect tropical fish from dangerous water conditions. Tests include: freshwater pH, ammonia, nitrite, high range pH, Nitrate, 4 test tubes, tray.

http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441776772&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302030152&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023693&bmUID=1119364908908

(NOTICE - This is the first test kit that I owned and still use. I did recently order the Tetra-Laborette kit since it does the GH and KH tests as well as the above tests, but recent internet searchs and API's website now show their FW Master Test Kit has the GH and KH tests but not the Nitrate Test... so you may have to buy the Nitrate test kit separately.)

*******************************************

DrsFosterSmith.com has the API FW Master Test Kit for regular price of $18.99 but on 3/18/2007, it was on sale for $15.19.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=4454&Ntt=api%20master%20test%20kit&amp;amp;amp;amp;Ntk=All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&N=2004&Nty=1

*********************************

NOW.... HERE'S SOME NEW INFORMATION FOR THIS BLOG.

Hagen Master Test Kit for $39.99 at BigAlsOnline.com -

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18538/si1380474/cl0/nutrafintestmasterlabkit

Aquarium tests for fresh and salt water. Every test you'll ever need in one complete kit. Hard plastic attache is portable and stores all your kits for future use. Tests for ammonia, calcium, nitrate, phosphate, nitrite, pH, iron, carbonate hardness, and general hardness. 9 instructions booklets, 5 glass test tubes with caps, 2 pipettes, and 1 spoon.

(This kit does not mention it but since it has all of these tests, but the instructions may have the conversion chart for CO2, or you can also use available online charts to determine your CO2 levels.)

Kordon AquaTru Test Kits (highly recommended by file://steve//) and I've read over the information at http://www.novalek.com/kordon/aquatru/overview.htm and I can see why file://steve// speaks highly of this kit. It's a much higher price than many of the above mentioned test kits but since accuracy is something we strive for, it's certainly something to be considered.

(START SNIP)
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:

Kordon AquaTru Water Quality Test Kits pioneered the use of dry reagents for use in aquarium and pond water testing using colorimetric water test kits. The major advantage of dry reagents is in their accuracy and shelf life. AquaTru Dry reagents for water testing are more stable than colorimetric tests done with test strips or liquid reagents. This means that the aquarist and pond keeper can perform tests using Kordon AquaTru water tests with the confidence of knowing the results will be as accurate as is possible for a "colorimetric" type test. Also, Kordon dates their reagents with their expiration dates. All manufacturer's reagents, whether dry or liquid, are subject to degradation. Because the reagent chemicals break down over time, it is important to know when the reagents are going to go out of date. Therefore, it is not recommended to use reagents that are not dated to show when they are out of date.

AquaTru's color comparator system has been carefully designed to reflect the needs of the concerned aquarist and pond keeper. The top is flared to make adding reagents easier,. The wide base increases stability. A special sliding window helps make color comparisons more accurate. The color strip consists of translucent colors applied to a durable plastic, rather than a printed paper card. The translucent color strip allows light to pass through, providing a much more accurate match when comparing the cube's colors to those produced by the reagents. Reflected colors, such as those produced on a printed comparator do not match as well when compared with the translucent colors in a test cube.

The quality of tap water varies widely and aquarium and pond systems. It is increasingly important to monitor water conditions carefully in the aquarium and pond. It is equally important to select only top quality, reliable test equipment to monitor these conditions. It is beyond the scope of most aquarists and pond keepers to analyze the accuracy of a test kit. They must depend upon the manufacturer to provide them with accurate, dependable test kits. Kordon has provided professional quality accurate water quality test kits in its AquaTru products for over 30 year, which are of the same grade as provided to scientific laboratories, government agencies, academia, and to commercial aquaculture.
(END SNIP)

The best price I could find on the Freshwater Master Test Kit was from an eBay store for around $60.00 plus 6.99 shipping. http://cgi.ebay.com/Kordon-Fresh-Water-Master-Aquarium-Test-Kit-35810_W0QQitemZ130125159778QQcmdZViewItem and here is the seller's online store site if the above link fails... http://stores.ebay.com/By-Rite-Pet-Supply but file://steve// provided this link where this kit is on sale for $48.00 right now (10/17/08) http://www.fish.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=790088+002 but it's regular price is $78.00 plus shipping when the sale ends.

******************************************

Often, I see people asking, "How long do the test kits last?". You should check the manufacturers website for current information but here is a forum link where the API (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc.) test kits shelf life info has been posted. http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/fishtest/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19378 which actually got the information from another forum so I'll just re-print it here for simplicity.

Hope these answers help. Each bottle has a lot number printed on them. The last
four digits are the date of Manufacture. (e.g. ab120202 is manufactured Feb.
2002). The people at Tetra & API informed, that test kits have a shelf life
of 3 years from the date of manufacture & hence a lot number of ab120202
would be 'in date' until Feb. 2005.
Info from : http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php
Test Solutions Shelf Life from bottling date:
Wide Range pH Test Solution 3 years
Ammonia Test Solution #1 3 years
Ammonia Test Solution #2 3 years
High Range pH Indicator Solution (m-Cresol Purple) 3 years
Nitrate Test Solution #1 3 years
Nitrate Test Solution #2 3 years
GH Test Solution 3 years
KH Test Solution 4 years
Nitrite Test Solution 4 years
Fresh Water Ammonia Test Solution (Nessler) 5 years
Fresh Water pH Indicator Solution 5 years
High Range pH Indicator Solution (Cresol Red) 5 years
Salt Level Test Solution #1 5 years
Salt Level Test Solution #2 5 years

Here is a recent thread from http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2328 about how the Nitrate Test Kits and how the last reagent bottle may have testing abnormalities due to chemical separation. There are solutions in the thread on how to keeping this problem from happening.

Hope this helps some of the newbies and experts.

GoldLenny

Mozy.com - FREE, secure, encrypted and automatic online backup of your documents and files. Check out how simple and secure it can be to use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files, photos and folders... or your entire hard drive, every day/night (you set the schedule) while you aren't using your computer... and did I mention... it's FREE. I have been using this product/service since it was in Beta Testing and have been 100% satisfied with the final product!!!

Monday, February 26, 2007

Filter Maintenance And Cleaning Recommendations

http://tinyurl.com/Filter-Maintenance

PREFACE - This article is most important to new fish-keepers and for tanks that are less than six months old. It is during these early stages that proper filter maintenance is most critical since you are still growing a proper sized Nitrifying Bacteria (N-Bacteria) colony in your filter media and substrate. This article is also very important and applicable for tanks over six months old that have limited filtration or overstocking issues or if you are having water quality issues, algae problems, sick fish, etc.... (Edit added 11/14/2008 - ...and most importantly because of a recent funny post in the Ponds-Koi Yahoo Group by Bill Dowden, owner of http://www.coastalpond.com/ so the following few paragraphs are about a Pond Filter but it's still applicable to ALL filters):

FILTRATION:

HAVING TO CLEAN A FILTER CAN BE GOOD.

First of all, if a filter does not collect junk and clog, it isn't doing its job and working to get the junk out of the water.

Since IT'S ALL ABOUT WATER QUALITY, the filter is supposed to take organics out of the water to IMPROVE water quality. (Inorganics = rocks = really aren't a problem.)

If a filter catches organics and the filter is not clogged (yet) but also not cleaned - then the organics can dissolve and go back into the water in solution = LOWERING THE WATER QUALITY.

SO, the object of a good pond keeper is to IMPROVE water quality = clean the organics from ANY filter BEFORE they dissolve = every other day, every third day.......

Sorry for bringing reality into your lives....

I know everyone wants a filter that doesn't EVER need to be cleaned.

Imagine that the filter catches poop. So it is the fishes' toilet.

How often do you clean (flush) your toilet? Why? Why not the fishes' also.

:-)

Bill
----------------


Here is a good article about "The Nitrogen Cycle" to help you understand this entire "article" further if you do not know about the nitrogen cycle. http://fish.orbust.net/cycling.html

You should also have a Master Test Kit capable of testing ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH. Having GH and KH test kits are also encouraged in determining some basic water chemistry/quality issues. There are many other things going on in our tanks that we can not easily test for.
And now... onto the actual article...
WHY ARE MY FISH GASPING, ACTING LETHARGIC OR DYING???
If your new tank has a small HOB (hang on back filter system) and you were told to buy and replace your filter cartridge once a month... or every other week, then that may be what is causing you so many problems. You are potentially putting your tank into a new mini-cycle everytime you "clean" the filters or change them out for a new one. NEVER clean the filters in the normal sense of the word "clean". If you cleaned the filter media by running the filter under tap water, the chlorine/chloramine in the water could have killed your GOOD nitrifying bacteria in the filter and you will have to "cycle" your filter media again. This will probably put your tank into a new mini-cycle which means testing for ammonia and nitrites and doing PWC's to keep them at safe levels. This could take around two weeks but there is usually enough N-bacteria on other surface areas and in the gravel to keep major spikes in the ammonia or nitrites but most of the N-Bacteria live in the filter sponges, pads, etc. so cleaning/maintaining them should be done carefully.

All you should do is once a week or every other week, when you do your 25% PWC (partial water change), take some of the tank water in a bucket and then you can take your filter cartridge or media out of the holder and swoosh it around in the tank water and squeeze it out to remove the big stuff off of it. Then put it back in the holder and back in your filter system. If it's really clogged up with detritus, you could also squeez it several times in the removed tank water bucket. This will possibly squeeze out some of the good N-Bacteria but will usually leave enough to keep your tank safe. The N-Bacteria are capable of doubling their colony size every 24 hours so as long as you leave enough, the colony will grow back shortly. This "swooshing or squeezing in removed tank water" method keeps the GOOD bacteria alive on the filter so you do not cause your tank to "cycle" again.

I know the filter companies and some pet store employees tell you to replace it once a month but they are just trying to sell filters. That is one of the leading cause of problems... messing with the filters because the "instructions" say to do it.

It is important to clean your filters regularly so you do not have excess detritus building up in them. Detritus in your filter media, when it starts breaking down, becomes a nitrate factory which goes into your water column as the tank water is filtered through it. Nitrates and phosphates feed algae blooms. Just like vacuuming your gravel to remove excess detritus before it breaks down, cleaning the filters often will also keep the nitrates much lower. I guess if you do frequent PWC's, that would substitute for keeping the filters cleaner but if you cleaned your filters before they become completely clogged, it would make the water quality even better between PWC's. Further, the bacteria that is consuming and breaking down the detritus use up a lot of O2 and KH and put out a lot of CO2. The higher CO2 further feeds algae growth and lowers your pH. The loss of KH can cause your pH to crash putting your fish into pH shock.

Here are two of my "Filter Profile" articles so you can see exactly how I clean and maintain two of my six filter systems.

Filter Profile - Marineland Penguin 200 Bio-Wheel

Filter Profile - Rena Filstar xP1 Canister

Here are some articles that I contributed to or did photo-documentation on at TheGAB.org forums, which has some more information on various filter systems including some photos from me and others.

http://thegab.org/Articles/Filtration.html

http://thegab.org/Articles/FilterProfilePenguin200.html


HOB's (Hang On Back Filter Systems - Power Filters and Bio-Wheel Systems) -
If you have a HOB filter system, you should really only clean the filter cartridge if the flow rate slows down or it's backing up back into the tank via the overflow outlet. But do NOT go more than a month between doing maintenance on any of your filters as they will build up a lot of detritus which will start to decay and possibly cause your nitrates to start climbing quickly. I just do the swoosh and/or squeeze method once a week with my 25% PWC and never have the problem. Don't worry.. most of us learned the hard way in the beginning.

Another thing if you have an HOB... is after you swoosh/squeeze the filter media/cartridge and have it ready to put back in the holder, dump the water out of the HOB reservoir as it will have some "big stuff" in there as well. Then put your filter back in the HOB, dip a few cups of water out of your tank to fill the HOB reservoir and then plug it back in.

If your HOB also has a Bio-Wheel, then you could technically change out the cartridge instead of using the swoosh/squeeze method since the actual Bio-Wheel would house sufficient numbers of N-Bacteria so that you would not cause a mini-cycle. The inventors of this system created it for that reason... so they could sell you lots of filter cartridges and encourage you to change them without causing harm to your fish. I still don't think it's necessary but if you find it simpler to change the cartridge every few weeks and don't mind the expense, then that is a choice that is available to you.

One last tip... if your "biobag" filters or filter cartridges have carbon in them, you can dump the carbon out after a few weeks since it has lost its effectiveness by then. This will also improve the flow rate through the "empty" biobag/cartridge as well. Some companies try to prevent you from emptying the carbon by sealing it inside of the plastic housing of the cartridge frame. I have been successful with doing "surgery" on the section holding the old carbon to open it up and dump the carbon while keeping the frame and floss/poly pad for reuse. The floss/poly pad or sponge material in the biobag/cartridge should last over a year but in the event you do decide you want to change your biobag/cartridge, put the new one in the reservoir for 2 weeks so it builds up a good bacteria colony. Then on your next PWC, you can trash the old one, swoosh the new one and then put in in the holder. It's not really necessary to change them very often... at least not until they look like they are about to fall apart. I have the same filter cartridges on my HOB's and they are all over a year old. (More about carbon below)

CANISTER FILTER SYSTEMS -
As far as a canister filter, I have four different phases of mixed mechanical/biological filtration in my canister filter system. I have a large sponge block with large pores, then a smaller sponge block with smaller pores, then even a smaller pore sponge and then a filter floss pad. I do maintenance on my canister twice a month or if I notice the flow rate slowing down. At the beginning of the month, I leave the sponges alone and clean the floss pad real good.. even running it under hot faucet water until it's white again. In the middle of the month, I squeeze the sponges to clean them and get the big stuff out of them but I don't run them under hot faucet water. This keeps a big portion of the nitrifying bacteria alive with each filter "cleaning" so I never have a problem with a mini-cycle. I also have two filters running on each of my tanks so I alternate the maintenance on them from week to week so I have at least one fully cycled filter running at all times. If you have a large enough canister filter, you can also add a more permanent biological filtration media. With this type of product, you would have it as one of the last phases of filtration and you would not do anything to this media other than a simple rinse in removed tank water to get any buildup off of it. There are many products sold that are excellent biological filtration but if you are not overstocked, your regular sponges and polypads will be sufficient surface area for the N-bacteria colonies. I do not have the "extra" biological filter media in any of my filters.

SPONGE FILTERS -

Sponge filter cleaning should be treated similar to cleaning the sponges in canister filters but obviously on a much smaller scale. The safest thing to do would be to squeeze the sponge in some removed tank water to remove the detritus from the sponge but keeping the majority of the N-Bacteria alive on the cell walls of the sponge. Then replace it and you are good to go!

MULTIPLE FILTER SYSTEMS ON A TANK -
If you have more than one filter system on your tank, then you could do alternating filter cleaning or changing and more thoroughly cleaning the filters since the other one will still be fully cycled. I do this on my Goldfish/Pleco tank since they are such big waste producers. I alternate between the two filter systems and clean 1/2 the filter media every two weeks. This means that I am only doing a good cleaning on 1/4th of my overall filter media volume and one of the filter systems does not even get touched every other week.

UGF's (Under Gravel Filters) -
These systems are not as common any more but some forum polls show up to 40% of fish keepers still use UGF's on some of their tanks.

There is also a reverse flow UGF that is making a comeback in the industry. I am thinking about trying this system if I ever have to breakdown my Goldfish/Pleco tank. The purpose of the reverse flow UGF is to push water up through the gravel which raises the detritus into the water column to be sucked into the intake and filtered out of the water before the "clean" water is returned to the tank through the gravel. This could save time in gravel vacuuming since it would not have to be done very often with this type of system but it does not work for planted tanks where the plants with a normal substrate. It would work if the plants are containerized plants.

The main thing with a regular UGF, that sucks the water down through the gravel (so it's not as good for a planted tank either), is to properly maintain them by vacuuming the gravel really good with the vacuum tube pushed down through the gravel to the UGF plate and make sure you suck up all of the detritus/mulm that gets caught between the gravel/plate/bottom.

Many of the older UGF filters on smaller tanks were under-powered with only an airline bubbler to power the up-tube siphon and these did not create enough suction which allowed excess mulm to build up under the gravel and UGF plates. Modern UGF's are powered by power heads, canister filters or HOB power filters which help eliminate the danger of mulm buildup but the gravel should still be vacuumed well all the way down to the UGF plate to make sure the excess mulm and detritus are removed.

If I was to use a UGF, I would also modify it in a couple of ways. I would make the holes in the UGF plate larger at the furthest points from the uplift tube so they get more water circulating from those furthest points to help eliminate the likelihood of mulm buildup. I would also add a box trickle filter of some sort so the returning water would flow through that trickle filter before returning to the water column.

Here's a forum thread about what happened to someone when they tried to "clean" or replace their UGF... http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5895&highlight and some "scientific" info about what is in the mulm... http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2349

Here are several sites on UGF maintenance & cleaning:

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-an-under-gravel-filter-or-ugf.htm

http://www.bestfish.com/ug.html (page one of two)

http://www.bestfish.com/ug2.html (page two of two)

http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar/lifttube.html (no longer working)

http://www.goldfishparadise.com/care/filter.php (no longer working)

CARBON -

As you may have noticed, I do not mention keeping carbon in my filter systems. Most experience freshwater fish keepers aren't keeping activated carbon in their filters anymore and rely on more frequent PWC's to keep the water quality in good condition. It's just another thing that the filter people are trying to sell you to keep revenue pouring in... pardon the pun. I haven't had any activated carbon in any of my four filter systems on two tanks for over two years and all of my fish are fine. I do keep some around in case of an emergency or if I need to filter some medicine out of one of my tanks but other than that, it sits in the closet. Of course, I am vigilant about doing weekly 25% PWC's so I am removing any organic buildup that some people may rely on carbon to remove. Also, most carbon products available to consumers will leach phosphates into your tank, which can cause algae problems... and some carbon products have been reported to actually leach the chemicals they had previously absorbed which can cause other health problems.

If your filter cartridges have the activated carbon sealed up inside of a plastic housing, it might take some minor "surgery" to open the plastic housing up so you can dump out the carbon. I have done this to several different manufacturers cartridges so I think it's possible with any of them. This way, you still have the plastic frame and floss/sponge material that can be re-used many, many times using the swooshing method above. It's better for your fish and your wallet.

If you have juvenile fish in your tank(s), then running carbon or Purigen is encourage to help remove the hormone buildup which can lead to stunting and health issues. Remember carbon should probably be changed every two weeks. I am now using Purigen in my tanks since it is better than carbon and is rechargeable so it costs less.

EDIT ADDED ABOUT "CARBON" ON 03/14/2007 -
I've been reading more and more about a product from Seachem, called Purigen, which is a rechargeable granular additive that can be used in filter systems and from what I've been reading on forum threads, it does work as advertised. It's not like zeolite which can starve your N-bacteria colonies. This product is more like activated carbon but is advertised to work 500% better than activated carbon. Since it is rechargeable and actually filters organic compounds better and LASTS LONGER than carbon, I'm not opposed to using a product like this and may actually try it soon.

Here is the manufacturer's webpage and information: http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/Purigen.html

Purigen™ is a premium synthetic adsorbent that is unlike any other filtration product. It is not a mixture of ion exchangers or adsorbents, but a unique macro-porous synthetic polymer that removes soluble and insoluble impurities from water at a rate and capacity that exceeds all others by over 500%. Purigen™ controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds. Purigen’s™ impact on trace elements is minimal. It significantly raises redox. It polishes water to unparalleled clarity. Purigen™ darkens progressively as it exhausts, and is easily renewed by treating with bleach. Purigen™ is designed for both marine and freshwater use. This product is sold by volume. Cited weight is minimal weight.

Directions: Rinse before use. Use in a fine mesh filter bag. Each 1 L treats up to 4,000 L (1,000 gallons*) for up to six months. Exhaustion is indicated by a pronounced discoloration of the beads to dark brown or black.

Regeneration: Soak in a 1:1 bleach:water solution for 24 hours in a non-metalic container in a well ventilated area and away from children. Rinse well, then soak for 8 hours with a solution containing 2 tablespoons of ChlorGuard™, Prime™, or equivalent dechlorinator per cup of water. Rinse well. For freshwater use, soak for 4 hours with a solution containing 1 tablespoon of buffer per cup of water (Discus Buffer™, Neutral Regulator™, or Acid Buffer™). Original color and full activity should now be restored and Purigen™ is ready for reuse. Caution: some slime coat products may permanently foul Purigen™ and render regeneration difficult. Do not reuse if odor of chlorine is detectable. In case of doubt, soak beads in small quantity of water and test for residual chlorine with a chlorine test kit.

Purigen FAQ's - http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/Purigen_faq.html
Purigen MSDS (Manufacturer's Safety Data Sheet)(pdf) - http://www.seachem.com/support/MSDS/Purigen.doc.pdf

GoldLenny replies:
I like how it changes color (darkens) as it gets dirty so you can tell when it's time to regenerate/recharge, or replace if you don't mind the extra expense. This is something carbon has lacked and what led to so many fish keepers not using it. The Purigen "regeneration" process isn't easy and since it uses Bleach, it must be done properly and carefully... including RINSING IT WELL, then the 8 hour soak in the dechlor solution and 4 hour soak in a "buffer" (for FW users) . From what I've been reading in forums, it's best to have two mesh bags working so that you can exchange them and then properly regenerate and rinse the "dirty" Purigen and then put the "cleaned" Purigen on the side for the next change. A 100ml package should be enough Purigen to make two mesh bags for a 50G aquarium.

Yahoo Shopping Search -prices for Purigen... lowest price (on this date) was DrsFosterSmith.com $5.89 for 100ml package (treats 100G for up to 6 months) - http://shopping.yahoo.com/search?p=purigen&cop=mss

PetsMart.com has Purigen for $6.29 for the 100ml package or $12.59 for the 250ml package and their retail stores will match the online price if you bring the printed page. The 100ml package comes in a media bag already where the 250ml package is in bulk form so you would have to purchase media bags also. Here is the PetsMart.com Purigen page as a TinyURL link... http://preview.tinyurl.com/3aakqj

ZEOLITE -
Zeolite is a white granular product that many consumers are often sold as a solution to ammonia issues in their tanks. While it does absorb ammonia, it gives you a false sense of security as it will "fill up" and then quit absorbing ammonia causing ammonia spikes in your tanks. If you did not use zeolite, you would have built up a proper sized N-Bacteria colony in your filter media which would have taken care of any potential ammonia issues. Further, when people get ammonia spikes, they are shortly followed by nitrite spikes. Then they are told to add salt to the tank to keep the fish from getting nitrite poisoning. The problem with this is that salt will cause zeolite to release ALL of the absorbed ammonia causing the ammonia level to spike even higher. Once again, it's a product that I keep on hand in case of emergencies... like when I went 15 days with no power after Hurricane Katrina, but it's not something I run in my filters on a normal basis.
HORMONES AND STUNTING, STRESS AND HEALTH ISSUES -
I've been learning a lot more about hormone issues that happen in overstocked or undersized tanks. In various fishery related studies, it has been reported that your fish release a hormone into the water column and when this hormone level reaches a certain point, the fish begin to get stressed and stunting issues start to develop. Stress leads to immune system issues and fish start to get sick. The best way to solve this problem is to NOT overstock your tank or have fish that are supposed to get BIG in a small tank. If you are stuck with this problem, then doing frequent PWC's (sometimes daily, depending on your situation), will reduce these hormone levels. It is also reported that products like carbon and more advanced chemical filtration products like Purigen, will remove some or all of these hormones but this needs further research. The best and simplest solution to removing these hormone levels is through frequent PWC's.
In conclusion:
There's a saying... "Dilution is the solution to pollution"... which certainly holds true in the fish keeping hobby. Fresh, clean and frequent PWC's (partial water changes) will do more to keeping your fish healthy than anything else out there.

I hope this helps save a few fish!

GoldLenny

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SELECT COMMENTS -

Mahstah posted:

"If your filter cartridges have the activated carbon sealed up inside of a plastic housing, it might take some minor "surgery" to open the plastic housing up so you can dump out the carbon. I have done this to several different manufacturers cartridges so I think it's possible with any of them. This way, you still have the plastic frame and floss/sponge material that can be re-used many, many times using the swooshing method above. It's better for your fish and your wallet."

Hi goldlenny-

Do you suggest NOT using carbon filters unless one wants to remove chemicals (malachite green or algae killer)? Is the carbon filter not needed because the good bacteria can fully take care of the ammonia?

-Mahstah

Hailey's Reply:

Carbon does not remove ammonia at all (or at least if it does, it is an immeasurable amount). I don't believe there is any reason to run carbon on an aquarium unless trying to remove a chemical like medication. It takes trace elements out of the water that fish need, it stops working fast, and worse yet, after it stops working it may leech the chemicals back into the water.

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BadSaturn3 posted:

I am a little new to Aquariums. I was wondering about filter care on a Bio-Wheel. Thank You very much.

GoldLenny's reply:

I need to update that article to include Bio-Wheels since they are gaining favor.

Basically, you would NEVER do anything to the Bio-Wheel, itself. If you are going to have the power off for very long, take it off and float it in your tank or in some removed tank water, to keep it wet so the N-bacteria in the actual wheel do not die off.

Marineland, also the inventors of Bio-Spira, came up with the Bio-Wheel idea... mainly as a way of selling filter cartridges since "now" you can change out their skimpy filter cartridges every two to four weeks without killing off your N-bacteria colony.... since they live mostly in the Bio-Wheel.

I have a Bio-Wheel 200, as the secondary filter system on my 65G Goldfish and Pleco tank and all I did after the first two weeks, is I used a razor knife to cut three sides of the black plastic slotted section and dumped the charcoal out. I added a piece of poly pad filter material into that square and put the cartridge back in the holder. Then I just do the filter maintenance as described in the article as needed. It's the same filter cartridge that came with the system many months ago. I also rolled up a 2" piece of poly pad, like a cigar, and put it in the little semi-circle overflow cut-out next to the intake tube. This forces the water through the filter, or over the top of the filter cartridge, when it starts to get clogged... but at least it keeps the Bio-Wheel spinning. I've found that if the water starts to back-up out of the overflow cut-out, then not much water goes through the filter and the bio-wheel does not spin properly, which could cause it to dry out and you would lose much of your N-Bacteria colony.

Thanks for asking about the Bio-Wheel systems.

GoldLenny

By rbishop on 05-05-2007, 06:40 PM ( This comment was added to my published article on AquariaCentral.com )
Well, it is probably semantics, but..UGFs...I think they are more popular than most folks think. Most any site I go to that has a poll, 40% of the respondents are still using them.
I still see folks claiming (repeating) that they clog up. I have never seen this to be the case in my experience, but feel those who fail to properly maintain them, could have an issue.
I believe RUGF are a great step forward in filtration, pushing the debri into the water column for removal by other power filters. This is extremely useful in high bioload tanks.In either case, there is no beating utilizing the entire surface area of the substrate as a bio filter. A lot of people and filter manufacturers talk about all the surface area their external filters create, but never acknowledge that your bacteria is only equal to your bio-load. I can run my UGF/RUGfs, and completely bust out any other filter to ground zero without any spikes or many cycles. That tells me the substrate alone holds enough surface area to maintain my tank.
Canisters..Kind of like above, the ability to put in multiple forms of media is vastly over rated. So many of us push letting your fish adjust to your normal parameters and then recommend filters that have the ability for 15 dozen medias. If you have a solid water problem and need to buffer, fine; or to create some conditions for spawning with peat or other products, they are nice. But to spend big bucks on some of the canisters out there is a waste, when a simple Mag 350 will suffice, by 10 fold. Or put the bucks into a small wet/dry. When run in parallel with a RUFG, there is no need for the fancy, high dollar canisters.
Carbon...This is a tricky one. To start, let me say, I run carbon in all my filters. Shock! $$$$ But I have clarity that is unachievable any other way.
The general theory is that a water change will do you just as well. I tend to disagree. If your water has impurities and discoloration, adding more of the same water doesn't make things better.
Also, carbon removes impurities we can not see and we can not test for. The nitrate test are an easy and conveinient method, but don't reflect other TDS DOCs we need to remove. Much as we have carbon filters on our drinking water systems. We can't see the difference, we don't test for it, but lab results show different. It is true that most cartridges have a poor quality and lack ample volume to be effective, but that shouldn't dissuade use of it.
Fish produce the growth inhibiting hormone for their full life span. Carbon should be used the full time for ultimate growth. The removal of impurities is a chemical/ionic bond. You can not release back into the water unless you heat to about 2400 degrees F.
Just my thoughts and experiences. I think we need to look at pros and cons, but not rule out a filtration method directly. Individual applications create the need for flexibility.
GoldLenny replies:
Thanks for your comments.
GoldLenny

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Last edited on November 14, 2008
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