Showing posts with label Nitrogen Cycle. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nitrogen Cycle. Show all posts

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Bio-Spira - LATE BREAKING NEWS.... GOOD OR BAD? I'm not sure!!!

ADDED JUNE 2008 -

DR. TIM'S AQUATICS new product, Dr. Tim's One And Only is my suggested replacement for Bio-Spira. More info - http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/productguide/H2O-PURE_Products/H2O-PURE_Products.html which is the new website for Dr. Tim Hovanec, who was the scientist who invented the original formula for Bio-Spira, as well as the Bio-Wheel filter system. Now that Tetra has merged with Marineland, I suspect that Marineland's once decent quality products will diminish in quality. Instead of looking around for Bio-Spira, just get Dr. Tim's One And Only and use it instead.

Below is just a rough draft of recent forum posts in the AquaticLife YahooGroup which came up in this thread.. http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/message/26973, with the new info I've learned about the "new" Bio-Spira which will be coming out soon. Of course, since these are copies of my emails, the latest posts are on top so start at the bottom if you want to read things in chronological order. I've highlighted the pertinent "Late Breaking News" as red and bold text so you can scroll down and read it much quicker. Read this entire thread for more info about Bio-Spira, the nitrogen cycle, etc.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 11:47 AM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Actually, the original Bio-Spira had active strains of Nitrosomonas, Nitrospira and Nitrosospira. It was these latter two that set Bio-Spira apart... well that and the fact that it was kept refrigerated to keep the bacteria in hibernation so they'd live in the package until used. Read that long interview with Dr. Hovenac that I linked to in my previous post (copied below). I really am waiting to see how Marineland or Tetra explains that this "new" product will work and keep the bacteria alive on the shelf.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lana Gibbons
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 10:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

AUGH. :)

I meant "the only bacteria in Bio-spira is nitrospira, so it is missing nitrosomonas"

-Lana

> AFAIK, the only bacteria in Bio-spira is nitrosomonas (someone please
> correct me if I'm wrong here).

Carmen,

For pet and human bacteria supplements the bacteria are typically anaerobic
- they don't need oxygen to survive. I'm not so sure about septic bacteria, but it seems to me there wouldn't be that much aeration in the tank, so I'd guess it is also anaerobic.

From what I understand, aquarium bacteria is supposed to be aerobic since O2 is required for oxidizing nitrite to nitrate. What I don't understand is the difference between the standard Nitrosomonas/Nitrobacter vs. Bio-Spira which contains NitroSpira. Nitrobacter and NitroSpira basically do the same job (convert nitrite->nitrate), the only difference I can find is that NitroSpira grows slower and tends to be the nitrite oxidizing bacteria in natural samples more often than Nitrobacter. Nitrospira is slowed by high ammonia levels, which Nitrosomonas is needed to handle. AFAIK, the only bacteria in Bio-spira is nitrosomonas (someone please correct me if I'm wrong here).

-Lana

>
> Or (from pet odor control products) maybe they're using encapsulation
> technology, "wrapping" it with a small amount of oxygen that won't be
> depleted before the expiration date?
>
> Carmen

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 10:37 AM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Carmen,

I'm not sure about these so-called digestive aid bacteria since I've never done any research or reading about them (I'm down here in Southern Louisiana where we put hot sauce and lots of spices on just about everything so I've never needed any added digestive bacteria.. lol) and whether they will "live" outside of their normal environment (your intestines) but I do know that nitrifying bacteria need ammonia and oxygen to live. I know some bacteria will live in a dry environment and then become active under the right conditions (aka yeast) and nitrifying bacteria are an airborne bacteria in nature but there's a big difference between airborne bacteria and packaged products. In airborne conditions, there's just the right amount of moisture, plenty of O2 and there's an ammonia source from the nitrogen cycle that exists in all of nature.

It took Marineland ten years to develop the original Bio-Spira and their patent will be expiring soon.. I'm guessing in the next couple of years since the product came out in 2002 so it's at least six years old and most patents are only good for ten years. They were never really able to get it introduced to the mass marketplace due to the cost and other inhibiting factors associated with keeping it refrigerated during shipping and at retail levels. I would imagine that over the past ten years, while Bio-Spira held the patent on the hibernation method of keeping the nitrifying bacteria "alive" throughout the shipping and distribution process, all of the other so-called bacteria-in-a-bottle companies would have been figuring out a way to keep theirs alive without the need for refrigeration and NONE of them have done so... so I'm not sure how Marineland could have finally figured out a way to do it but I guess anything is possible so I'll wait and see some published reports from hobbyists and/or peer reviewed studies to come out. Here's a long interview with Dr. Timothy Hovenac, the lead scientist that helped develop Bio-Spira... http://aquamaniacs.net/forum/cms_view_article.php?aid=36

The fact that they are releasing the "new" Bio-Spira under Tetra's brand name makes me think it will just be another bottle of JUNK that they try to sell unsuspecting newbies. Of course, Bio-Spira did learn it was not just the nitrosomonas bacteria but the nitrospira and nitrosospira bacteria that started the nitrogen cycle so maybe, just maybe, if they do have some of these proper bacteria in a bottle, it might work but I'm very, very skeptical at this point. Why would they not use their own name? They already have really good brand recognition, with many hobbyists, as the only product that works as advertised so I'm not sure why they'd give that up... haven't they ever heard of "New Coke"? I'd like to see what Dr. Timothy Hovenac has to say about the new formula of Bio-Spira.

I know the other so-called bacteria-in-a-bottles do not work. For example, with the original Bio-Spira, you could add it one day and then start adding ammonia at up to 5ppm the next day and the tank would "cycle" properly (ammonia>nitrite>nitrate). I've read many posts from hobbyists who tried this experiment with the other bacteria-in-a-bottle products and NOTHING happened to the added ammonia the next day because there simply were NO live bacteria in the bottles. Eventually the tank would cycle but that would happen due to the airborne nitrifying bacteria eventually inhabiting the tank and growing large colonies. Most of the other bacteria-in-a-bottles did not even have the proper nitrifying bacteria.

Hey... now that's something we could do. Bottle air and sell it! Just kidding of course since the bottled air would eventually run out of O2 and ammonia as the nitrifying bacteria live and they would eventually die off. Hey, wait a minute.... we could sell bottles of air that aren't sealed so the nitrifying bacteria have a constant supply of fresh air and suspended ammonia so they would live. Or we could sell bottled air that has to be kept refrigerated to put the nitrifying bacteria into hibernation.

Oh well.. I don't have the patent yet so I'm making this special licensing offer to anyone else. You are welcome to use my idea of selling "GoldLenny's 100% Natural Air" complete with suspended nitrifying bacteria, oxygen and ammonia for use in jump starting the nitrogen cycle in aquariums. I do want a 5% royalty though! ;-)

I guess this belongs more on my Rants & Raves blog. LOL

On a side note, since I don't have 5-10 empty 10G tanks sitting around, maybe someone out here can go out and buy a bottle of each of the current so-called bacteria-in-a-bottle products and try this simple experiment. Set up the tanks running with a filter, add the product, wait the prescribed time period and then add 5ppm of ammonia and test it the next day to see if any of the ammonia was converted through the nitrogen cycle.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Carmen H
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 8:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Been thinking on this one. I'm a dog person, not a chemist, but here's something I thought of...
Most high-end holistic dog foods contain probiotics (bacteria). They are applied after the food cools to avoid being damaged by heat.

Eagle Pack also sells them in a dried powder form to assist with either food transition and fix for upset tummies. The bacteria are in "suspended animation" due to being dried. Maybe they've figured out a way to suspend it similarly so that it is dormant and doesn't require oxygen. A liquid is obviously different but ??? Come to think of it, Septibac for septic systems is available in powder OR liquid...I've never done a pile of research on the efficacy of it but I spray it on my yard in the spring to help digest leftover winter waste after the major spring cleanup and it seems to work...

Or (from pet odor control products) maybe they're using encapsulation technology, "wrapping" it with a small amount of oxygen that won't be depleted before the expiration date?

Carmen

On Sat, Apr 5, 2008 at 12:02 AM, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> wrote:

> Bruce,
>
> There simply is not a way to have a room temp bottle of live
> nitrifying bacteria that would have a shelf life of more than a few
> days. The science simply doesn't support it.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 11:02 PM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Bruce,

There simply is not a way to have a room temp bottle of live nitrifying bacteria that would have a shelf life of more than a few days. The science simply doesn't support it.
The bacteria need high O2 levels and feed off of ammonia... but if the ammonia level is above 5ppm, it starts to have a negative effect on the bacteria's colony growth and lifespan. Further, the bacteria colony is capable of doubling its size every 24-48 hours so even if they only put one or two nitrifying bacteria in a 16 oz. bottle of 5ppm ammonia solution, based on geometric progression, the colony would rapidly grow and consume all of the ammonia in a very short period of time.

Show me a product that has live bacteria living in the bottle after a couple of months in production, distribution and sitting on a shelf and I'll take back my words but frankly, I don't think such a product exists. I've tried several of the other so-called bottled bacteria products over the years and NONE of them worked as advertised... except Bio-Spira.

This is what was so GREAT about the original Bio-Spira and that it was kept refrigerated to keep the bacteria in hibernation so they did not consume all of the ammonia in the package until it was time to add the package to the aquarium. There were peer reviewed scientific reports proving that Bio-Spira actually had live nitrifying bacteria.

I've never seen any peer reviewed reports on any of the other so-called bacteria-in-a-bottle products. Once again, I'll take back my words if you can show me such reports on the products you claim work.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of bruce cohen
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 10:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Not all all bacteria in a bottle are pure JUNK The tropical science company have an excellent line of bacterias in a bottle both for saltwater and fresh including freshwater spawning aid as well as pro botics that protect fish. they even have a gravel product that does what it says cleans the gravel without increasing nitrates. it apears that marineland may have figured out a way to put the bacteria in a statis but I do know that Jungle Labs are probally not going to be happy when they have to re name there product since theirs were on the market first then they should have the rights to calling there product start right.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> > wrote:

More late breaking news about Bio-Spira...

I wonder if it's going to work as well as the original product or if it's just going to another bacteria-in-a-bottle that doesn't work. It could be why they are releasing it under Tetra's label since Tetra will pretty much sell anything in a bottle... look at their Easy Balance with Nitraban product which is pure JUNK!!!

Here is the reply I got from Marineland...

Hello,

We are relaunching bio-spira. It is in a new package and reformulated.

It will no longer need to be refrigerated, and hopefully, soon on every store shelf across the nation. The freshwater version will be branded Tetra and called start right, while the saltwater version will be branded Instant Ocean and still be called Bio-Spira.

They held off on adding it to the webpage because of this change.

Regards,

Robert Huber
United Pet Group, Aquatics Div.
Senior Consumer Relations Specialist
Robert.Huber@Tetra.net <
mailto:Robert.Huber%40Tetra.net> 1-800-526-0650 ext. 6126

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [
mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com <mailto:goldlenny%40gmail.com> ]
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 11:29 AM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <
mailto:%27AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> '
Subject: Bio-Spira - was RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Mike,

I was shocked when I saw your post so I did some Googling and it looks like the rumor may be partially correct.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/ <http://www.drsfostersmith.com/> was carrying Bio-Spira up until recently but now it's no longer on their website either. When I looked at http://www.marineland.com/, <http://www.marineland.com,/> there's no mention of Bio-Spira either. WTF!!

Then I called Marineland's 800 number and found out some interesting stuff.

For the past couple of years, Marineland has been working on a way to bottle Bio-Spira so it did not have to be refrigerated, since the refrigeration aspect was a big problem getting Bio-Spira into ALL pet stores and/or selling it easily online.

According to the person I spoke to, there is still some of the "old" product available at some retailers and online sources but he could not give me any of the online sources because his computer was acting up. The new Marineland website still has the store locator function and he suggested looking for a retailer in the area and contacting them to see if any have or might have access to some of the remaining inventory of the old Bio-Spira.

It will be interesting to see how they package it and their explanation as to why it doesn't have to be refrigerated since the big explanation for why Bio-Spira worked all along and why all of the other bacteria-in-a-bottle products didn't work was because it was refrigerated and the bacteria were kept in hibernation. The room temperature stuff could not keep the bacteria alive if there ever was live bacteria in the room temp bottles in the first place.

He also said that they just revamped their website and did not put Bio-Spira on it yet since the new product isn't available yet and they have shipped their final inventory of the old product. I told him they should put a press release or something on a link to Bio-Spira on their website so people will know, otherwise the internet rumor mill will have all kinds of misinformation out there in a matter of minutes.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog -
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/ <http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Deenerz@aol.com <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 4:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Sissy,

I heard a new batch has not been made in about two years and none is scheduled to be made at this time. I heard a rumor that Dr. Fosters and Smith might have an alternative but have not had a chance to check myself.

-Mike

If you can find Marineland's Bio-spiral, it will set up a bacteria bed instantly. It's a bacteria suspentded in a medium that seeds the nitrifying bacteria strains into your system, that normally takes at least 21 days to establish with starter fish. It is hard to find,and sometimes if

-----Original Message-----
From: Sissy Sathre
>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 11:31 am
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Hi Lisa, a 50 gallon is a perfect size aquarium for a beginner. Much larger margin for mistakes than smaller tanks. I suggest going to :
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsetupindex.htm <http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsetupindex.htm>

You will find "Good" information there from very experienced aquariest.
You'll find different ways of filtering your new aquarium from under ground filters, invented in the 1950's to supply oxygen to your bacteria bed-creating a biological balance, to the newest methods of we/dry filters, bio-wheels,other hang on filters, canister filters and denitrification filters.

If you can find Marineland's Bio-spiral, it will set up a bacteria bed instantly. It's a bacteria suspentded in a medium that seeds the nitrifying bacteria strains into your system, that normally takes at least 21 days to establish with starter fish. It is hard to find,and sometimes if you call Marineland and tell them you cant find it in your area, they will send it to you Free overnight shipping and all. It has a short shelf life and has to be keep cool,so many stores dont carry it. I am the Marineland service rep. in west-Tx. They have sent it to me to give out before for free ! Marineland is the manufacture of commercial lobster tanks, and MARS systems, the wall unites you see in Wal-marts and they manufacture aquariums and aquarium supplies including the Bio-wheel filters.

You can of coarse cycle the fishless way,and speed the process of the nitrogen cycle.
The best way in my opinion is to get a hand full of gravel from a healthy existing aquarium, or exchange bio-wheels from a existing filter. I do both and start my clients tanks out with hardy fish in 24 hours. I only add a few fish to feed the bacteria bed, then make sure no mini cycle is taking place, and then add a few more every couple weeks until is at capacity for the size the fish will grow.

I hope this helps!

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
http://www.aquariumsbysissy.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:48 PM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Hi Lisa,

A good free place to start is to look at profiles for your proposed fish on http://fish.mongabay.com/ Each profile will have a paragraph called SC (Suggested Companions) which will give you a baseline of usually compatible fish to start off with. Remember though... the fish do not always read the same things we do so there will sometimes be problems. The Mongabay profiles also give you recommended tank size, feeding tips, water parameters, etc.

Another good place to start is my "A to Z of Fish Keeping" page on my blog http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/. That one page will cover most aspects of beginner fish keeping and there are links to two different free online tutorials that you can take at your leisure which will walk you through all of the basics. Pay special attention to fishless cycling your new tank and learn the basics of "the nitrogen cycle", called "Cycling" in the fish keeping world. It's the biggest mistake most newbies make by not fishless cycling their tank or trying to cycle with fish and not understanding the arduous process that the fish are going through.

Since you have the tank, you could set it up and get the fishless cycling process going while you take the tutorials and read up more on the types of fish you might want. Make a list of what you like and look around at your locals stores to see what they have. It will take a couple of weeks to fishless cycle the tank and you will probably change your planned stocking several times during this time period.

Don't fall for all the so-called-chemical fixes that the stores try to sell you. Get a decent master test kit now and do a baseline test on your tap water so you will know what you are starting with. I have a blog on doing the baseline testing. Post your before/after numbers here and we'll help you decipher them.

Let us know which books you have. There are about 1,000 bad books for every good book out there... especially when it comes to setting up a new tank since much of what we've learned about the nitrogen cycle in fish keeping has happened in the past 10 or so years. I've got some books published by well known publishers that are plain JUNK. If you want to buy a magazine, get TFH - Tropical Fishkeeping Hobbyist rather than Aquarium Fish Magazine since AFM has some real junk information coming out of it where TFH is usually very reliable. I'm about to do a new blog comparing the two magazines just to show the disparity of information that is out there by popular publications.

Your 50G tank will not be large enough for long term keeping of the Bala Shark since they grow to 16". Here is the profile on the Bala Shark and I've copy/pasted the SC section ... http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Balantiocheilus_melanopterus.html

Here is the profile on Angelfish... scroll down about halfway to the more common angelfish... http://fish.mongabay.com/angelfish.htm A 50G tank, depending on the dimensions, would be a good home for 1-3 angelfish and depending on how many angelfish you go with, you could have other fish also. Angelfish get pretty BIG (6" long x 9" high) and even though they are peaceful cichlids, they are cichlids and are not always angels so they need their space. ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lisa
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

----- Original Message -----
From: Lisa
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:37 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] New 50gal freshwater set up

Hi all.

I'm looking at maybe starting a new freshwater tank, and need all the help I can get.
It will probably be a 50 gal or smaller.

I really am a novice at this. So I have no idea where to begin.

I like bala sharks. And would like to know what other species I would be able to keep with them.

Either that or some angels.

So where do I start?

I have some books on freshwater set ups which cover plants and various species of fish. But they don't have a great deal of information. I figured it would be great to talk to people with experience.

First of all. How, when and how much do I need to do a water change?

How do I get the right water conditions?

Monday, April 2, 2007

Filter Profile - Rena Filstar xP1

The following article shows a breakdown, cleaning and reassembly of a Rena Filstar xP1 Canister Filter... one of my many filter systems.

Manufacturer Stats:

http://www.rena.net/en_us/filstarspecs.asp

xP1 - 250gph (up to 45G tropical or 25G goldfish tank)
xP2 - 300gph (up to 75G tropical or 30G goldfish tank)
xP3 - 350gph (up to 175G tropical or 35G goldfish tank)
xP4 - 450gph (up to 265G tropical or 45G goldfish tank)

» Easy-to-use and extremely powerful with multi-stage filtration and bypass-free circulation, the Rena Filstar continues to raise the bar for the best possible aquarium filtration.

» Guaranteed self-priming system (unique "anti-airlock" system)

» Adaptable to all types of aquariums (spraybar and powerhead included)

» Extremely quiet

» Efficient 3-step filtration guaranteed in a by pass-free construction


The following photos will show a complete breakdown of the filter system and also how I add extra polypad filter media for increased mechanical and biological filtration between the bi-weekly cleanings.

The reservoir on this filter is around one gallon so it does have a lot more room for filter media, compared to an HOB (hang-on-back) style filter. Besides the two large sponge blocks, which come with the xP1, I also prefer to use extra polypad media which provides both mechanical and biological filtration.

This is the smallest Rena Filstar Canister Filter, rated at 250gph, but I think it's the best bargain as far as gph-per-dollar out of many canister filters that I compared including the bigger Rena Filstar models. I've had it for three years (this blog was written in 2007) and it is a work-horse, IMO (and it's 2010 now and still working like a horse!) The only thing I've had to do, besides normal weekly to bi-weekly filter media cleanings and impeller cleaning, was to clean the clear intake/outflow hoses of any algae/detritus build-up. I usually do this about once a year, by using a bottle brush and a piece of string, tied to the handle, to pull it through the hose.

Hint on cleaning the hoses - After removing both hoses from the system and draining them to get most of the water out, use your home vacuum to "suck" the string through the hose, then pull the bottle brush through and the hose is "clean" of any algae build-up. You may have to do this more than once, depending on your build-up.

Here is the filter installed and running. Prior to doing any filter maintenance, you must unplug the filter system. Like many filter systems, there is no on/off switch on this filter system either.
http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/1306/2092176780070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Side view showing clear housing to observe water quality in the filter. It will almost always show "clear" when it's running since the detritus is sucked up against the bottom filter grate. As soon as you unplug the filter, you will see the detritus floating around in the reservoir.
http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/2651/2744859670070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Showing lever to release hose connection panel, in the down or locked position.
http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/2640/2270476290070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Showing lever lifted up to release hose connection panel.
http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/1909/2758518610070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Showing hose connection panel lifted off of canister top.
http://inlinethumb61.webshots.com/2172/2708542980070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Canister removed to counter for cleaning. Four snap locks un-snapped.
http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/470/2654283470070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Canister motor housing removed showing underside with impeller cover.
http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/2699/2388770160070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Canister motor housing removed showing impeller cover removed.
http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/38/2296670850070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Inside of canister showing filter basket.
http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/606/2142850340070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

After basket removed, showing "dirty" water remaining in canister.
http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/2609/2013663370070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Basket removed, sitting in sink.
http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/375/2414400960070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Opening the basket to expose various filter media.
http://inlinethumb43.webshots.com/1002/2640676150070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

This is the "top" of the filter media basket. Water comes up through the bottom of the filter basket so this is the last stage of filtration... a polishing poly pad.... although I am planning one more stage of Purigen.
http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/1878/2493597970070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Second to last stage of filtration... a blue/white coarse/medium poly pad.
http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/2931/2618007080070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Plastic grates go between each layer in the basket. Third to last stage of filtration... a small pore open cell sponge.
http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/681/2904953530070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

First stage of filtration... a large pore open cell sponge.
http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/2334/2126510940070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

Basket empty of all filter media and ready to be rinsed off. Note large detritus/debris on the bottom of the large pore open cell sponge.
http://inlinethumb08.webshots.com/1287/2051703060070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

The two sponges were swooshed and squeeze out several times in a gallon of removed tank water, so most of the N-bacteria stay living in the sponges.

There is more surface area on the insides of one of these sponges and polypads than almost all of the other surface areas of your tank, combined. Open cell sponges provide biological and mechanical filtration. Polypads provide biological and polishing benefits.

The Blue/White poly pad was rinsed off under PUR filtered tap water to clean it good while not killing all of the N-bacteria, since the PUR filter removes chlorine/chloramine from the tap water. The White polishing poly pad was rinsed really good over and over under hot tap water to bring it back to nearly white condition. Poly pads provide biological and mechanical filtration.

The media was put back into the basket in the reverse order with the white polishing polypad on top, as the last stage of bio/mechanical filtration.
http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/1288/2662456640070613611S425x425Q85.jpg

The canister reservoir was then emptied and rinsed out. The basket full of cleaned media replaced into the canister reservoir and the reservoir filled up with tank water. The motor housing replaced on top and snapped into place. Then the hose connection panel plugged back in and clamped into place. Then plugged back in to turn it on.

Please note that I am going to start using Purigen, from Seachem. A [b]rechargeable[/b] filter media that is reportedly 500% better than carbon and does not remove trace elements... only DOC's, etc. It does not purport to allow you to go 6 months or forever without PWC's but it does claim to last up to 6 months between recharges. It's a white filter media that turns dark as it gets "dirty" and then is recharged using a bleach solution and soaking in dechlor solution before being reused in our tanks.

My blog "article" on Filter Maintenance & Cleaning details more information.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-important.html

The above pictures are reduced in size for this article (I like that feature at Webshots... where you can choose from a thumbnail to a full-size image URL for use in linking in forums). They are published FULL-SIZE in my public Webshots photo album, http://pets.webshots.com/album/558222608NBpXLJ , so anyone is welcome to use copies as they see fit.... subject to $1,000,000.00 royalty payments to me! LOL (I don't have any rich relatives so I have to get rich somehow. :-D)

Lenny Vasbinder

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

Bio-Spira online - Where to buy???

2008-AUGUST - MORE LATE BREAKING NEWS

It seems that Dr. Tim Hovanec and Marineland have parted ways and the bad news is that Marineland has merged into Tetra which I consider to be a lesser quality company.... but the good news is that Dr. Tim has started his own company at http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/ and you can now buy his own version of an improved Bio-Spira-like product called Dr. Tim's One And Only http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/productguide/H2O-PURE_Products/H2O-PURE_Products.html which can also be purchased at most major retailers and online etailers. It doesn't have to be refrigerated and can last for up to six months at room temperatures but does last longer if it is kept refrigerated.

2008-0405 - LATE BREAKING NEWS ABOUT BIO-SPIRA

See the late breaking news here... http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2008/04/bio-spira-late-breaking-news-good-or.html

For years and years, I use to recommend people buy their Bio-Spira from The Fish Store in Tennessee since they had the best prices and lowest shipping costs. I just learned today that they are no longer in business so I went to work finding a new online source for Bio-Spira

After Froogling and Yahoo Shopping searching, I found that DrsFosterSmith.com is the only online source at this time. They are a reputable website but their prices aren't always the best and when I check their online prices just now, http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=15462&Ntt=bio%2Dspira&Ntk=All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&amp;amp;Np=1&N=2004&Nty=1 , it looks like it will cost around $40.00 for a 1 oz package and $50.00 for a 3 oz package, including overnight refrigerated shipping. Not cheap but still much better than spending a month or more humanely fishless cycling or putting you and your fish through the arduous process of cycling with fish.

If you come across other online sources of Bio-Spira, please leave me a comment so I can add that resource to this blog and to my favorites folder.

You can also go to the Marineland.com - Order Bio-Spira page and on the left side, there is a place to enter your zip code to find a retailer but I've found that many of the retailers listed do not actually stock Bio-Spira but do carry other Marineland products. If you ask your local retailer, they may be able to order it for you and save you the expensive shipping charges associated with ordering a single pouch for yourself.

Hope this helps and saves a few "newbies" from having to go through the "cycling with fish"process. They can get Bio-Spira one day and get their fish the next day.

GoldLenny

Mozy.com - FREE, secure, encrypted and automatic online backup of your documents and files. Check out how simple and secure it can be to use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files, photos and folders... or your entire hard drive, every day/night (you set the schedule) while you aren't using your computer... and did I mention... it's FREE. I have been using this product/service since it was in Beta Testing and have been 100% satisfied with the final product!!!

Monday, February 26, 2007

Nitrates - Long Explanation (Thanks to Steve S. on another forum)

From: "Steve S" (Edits in brackets added by Lenny)

Subject: Nitrate - Long post

There does seem to be a lot of unnecessary concern of nitrate levels expressed by people on this list for relatively low levels of nitrate.

Nitrate is the end product of the ammonia cycle ("The Nitrogen Cycle") that occurs in every tank.

There is no easy way to naturally remove nitrate without the use of a setup that uses anaerobic bacteria to reduce nitrate to its components. The usual method of deal with nitrate is water changes (25% PWC's) and the addition of live plants, which includes algal growth.

At what level should one really become concerned about the level of nitrates in the aquarium. A level of 1000 ppm is definitely a concern, since everything dies. So we need to go lower than that. 500 ppm is still of definite concern. Many animals and plants will die at this level also, but some will live, though not well, as they will be subject to long-term effects of nitrate, such as hole-in-head disease and the erosion of the lateral line. Some plants also will not survive this level of nitrates.

At 200 ppm, the effects of nitrate will be more long term than immediate. Again, we would be looking at such things as later line disease and hole-in-head as a result. Going lower will help reduce the effects. At 150 ppm, again, the effects are long term. Going even lower, long term effects are still present.

Ideally, one would wish to reduce nitrate levels to less than 20 ppm, but immediate action is not called for until you reach a number of more than 150 ppm. Please do note that figures for a marine (salt water) aquarium are very much different, and action is called for when nitrate is measured in the single digits of ppm. In a marine environment, it is possible to reduce nitrates to immeasurable levels through the use of foam fractioners, which do not work well in fresh water.

So, you notice that your nitrates are rising, or at a high level. One can simply panic and do immediate large water changes (or a series of 3-4 24% PWC's) to reduce the level of nitrates. However, doing this fails to discover and remedy the core cause of the high level of nitrates. Unless you are getting reading over 150 ppm of nitrate, you do have some time to do investigative work to discover and remedy the cause of the nitrates, while your regular water changes (25% PWC's) should help you reduce the level.

Where does nitrate come from? Nitrate is the end product of the ammonia cycle ("The Nitrogen Cycle") as we follow it in the aquarium. Ammonia is produced as a waste product by the animals you have living in your tank. It can also be produced by dead and decaying animals and plants as well as food added to the aquarium. If you are using fertilizer for your plants, this may also be a source of ammonia. You need to reduce the sources of ammonia. Feeding less will help reduce the level. Most of us feed our fish too well. A day of fasting may help the health of your fish, as well as reducing the amount fed each day. Raising fry is a whole other ball of wax, which I will not be covering here, but to get quick growth you do want to ensure they are well fed. If there is left over food when you are feeding, you will need to reduce the amount of food you give to your fish, until there is no left-overs in the tank. Until this is remedied, you will want to wait a while after feeding the fish, then siphon off the left-overs.

If you are fertilizing your live plants, you will want to reduce or stop the fertilization of the plants or start adding only the trace elements your plants may need for good growth and avoid a fertilizer that contain nitrogenous products.

Also look for and remove any dead materials from your aquarium. Likely, if this is a fish, you'll do it rather rapidly. If it is plant material, then you will need to, perhaps, do this on a daily basis. Algae poses a particular problem. Removal of algae will reduce the capacity of your aquarium to remove nitrates, but then, it is also difficult to know when to remove it because it may be dead or simply another form of algae. It may be best to follow your aesthetic sense and remove what does not appeal to you, and remove any that is not green. Those of you that have snails in your aquarium are faced with a sometimes difficult decision--is the snail dead or is it alive? Tough to tell sometimes. However, if you have a nitrate problem, it may be well to take the conservative course of action and remove any snails you have doubts about, either to dispose of or to place in another environment. (You can always do the smell test on a snail. If it smells rotten, it's probably dead but you can put it in another container with some of your tank water if you want to be cautious.)

Throughout this entire process, you will need to keep an eye on the progress you are making. Go back to daily testing of your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. Also test your tap water, which could be another source of nitrates in your aquarium. The EPA has a regulation that states that drinking water should not contain more than 10 ppm of nitrate. However, from reports of aquarist's around the country, not all water companies are meeting this requirement. Also, if you are using well water, your nitrates may be high, especially when the aquifer is in agricultural parts of the country. Our well fertilized lawns and gardens can also have an effect on the nitrate level of aquifers, but most research has pointed to agriculture as a large culprit. If your water is starting with unacceptable levels of nitrate, you will need to look into means to reduce the nitrate before the water reaches the aquarium. This is usually done with chemical adsorption products.

If your nitrate level still does not lower after doing all this, you will need to look at some other aspects of your aquarium. I have mentioned live plants in this discussion, but I am aware that not all people utilize live plants in their aquariums. There may be practical reasons for this, like the vegetarian habits of your fish prevent the growth of plant s to any great extent, and may reduce the number of plants you have, your fish may be diggers that uproot plants, etc. Your tank may simply be overcrowded with fish, and be overloading the biological processes that would normally handle such situations. In the former situation, you may want to utilize the marine idea of a refugarium, where there is a separate tank that water flows through that has plants to pull out the "bad stuff" from the water, with water from the main tank run through the filtration system into the refugarium and back into the main tank. You may also wish to investigate plants that may be immune to the predation of your fish. As for overcrowding, well, you simply need to reduce the numbers of fish that are present in the tank. You may set up more aquariums to house them or give them to friends who would like them. You may even be able to bring them back to you LFS for credit.

Another source may be a decoration that has recently been added to your tank that is leaching substances into your water as it 'cures' in your tank. Removal of this object will show a quick and drastic reduction with your next water change. Should this be the case, you'll need to either cure the item outside the tank, or do without it inside the tank.

Also, not usual, but, perhaps not as unusual as we may like to think, there may be an outside force acting upon the tank, like something some one has added to the tank without your knowledge. One of the kids could have put something in the tank without your knowledge and you may never know if the youngin' expects they'll get a punishment for admitting it or an adult at a party may have added something just o see what the fish will do. This kind of thing can be the devil to track down, and the influence will abate with time.

What ever you need to do, don't panic. Take things slowly and try to identify the cause of the problem. Your fish will allow you time to fix things. Should you be keeping marine fish, well, as I mentioned earlier, we are in a whole other ballpark there, and you may need to take more rapid action to avoid losing animals. Marine animals have less a tolerance for nitrate than freshwater do, and I would advise you to find a guru near you that can be of assistance. I'm not a marine person, nor do I play one on TV, and do not claim to have any special knowledge of marine topics.

Don't buy into any 'magic' cures for what ails your tank. They may do more harm than good.
Thank you for your patience reading this long, and somewhat involved post.

\\ Steve //


Here is a follow-up email from Steve to me.


Lenny,

I've been out of town since before you posted this, and have just returned today. I do need to emphasize that there are some fish, such as those of the _Apistogramma_genus (at least some have been placed in the _Microgeophagus_genus now, I think), that are fairly intolerant of nitrates of any level.

One needs to check the literature available on these, and any other species of fish to determine what levels of nitrate they can stand. I do not believe this was emphasized in my original post properly.

The original post was merely meant to ease some people's fears, and therefore need to do something immediately, about nitrate levels that may be considered to be too high. Rapid changes in water chemistry can be more dangerous to the fish than the condition you are trying to correct.

Generally, if the nitrates are out of whack, it did not happen overnight, but was a gradual rise over a period of time. The correction should lead to a gradual downward trend over time. If you are keeping fish that are sensitive to even minimal levels of nitrate, such as the rams mentioned above, you may need to react quickly to change the level, and try to save as many as you can, but generally, a slow and considered approach is best for all involved.

\\ Steve //

BIG THANKS to Steve for this long article on Nitrates and his follow-up clarification.

EDIT added August 23, 2009.

Here is another good article that I found after looking at a web page that file://steve// posted to the AquaticLife Yahoo Group, which further talks about the effects of nitrates on our fish.

http://www.aquaworldaquarium.com/Articles/TonyGriffitts/AdverseAffectofNitrateontheAquarium.htm

GoldLenny



Mozy.com - FREE, secure, encrypted and automatic online backup of your documents and files. Check out how simple and secure it can be to use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files, photos and folders... or your entire hard drive, every day/night (you set the schedule) while you aren't using your computer... and did I mention... it's FREE. I have been using this product/service since it was in Beta Testing and have been 100% satisfied with the final product!!!
Related Posts with Thumbnails

World Flag Counter added April 14, 2010 and U.S. State's Flag Counter added April 22, 2010

World Flag Counter added April 14, 2010 so the numbers are artificially low by over 10,000 hits (pageviews) based on Google's Adsense numbers. I'm only showing the top 60 countries but if you want to see the full list, open the FlagCounter in a new tab/window and you can then navigate around to see a Map, List, etc. The "Visitors" number is based on unique visitors so this counter does not re-count the same person who visits again. free counters Free counters!

Followers